Cropped Double-Breasted Jacket

Name: Cropped Double-Breasted Jacket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4190
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4190

A fitted, cropped women's jacket without a collar, with a double-breasted six-button front, a shoulder yoke, princess seams and two-piece sleeves. The back hem curves down at the centre. Fully lined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: lightweight suiting fabric from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Cropped Double-Breasted Jacket

A fitted, cropped women's jacket without a collar, with a double-breasted six-button front, a shoulder yoke, princess seams and two-piece sleeves. The back hem curves down at the centre. Fully lined.

When To Wear

Over dresses and high-waisted skirts or trousers for the office.
As a light jacket in spring and autumn.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close-fitting, waist length, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.

Neckline: Collarless; the wide right front crosses over to the left, forming an asymmetric V-neckline.

Front: Double-breasted, six buttons in two rows that draw closer together towards the hem; buttonholes and decorative buttons on the right front, buttons on the left front. Princess seams run from the yoke seam to the hem. The fronts are faced with an inner front piece cut from the main fabric.

Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves (upper and lower sleeve) with the cap eased in; sleeve heads and shoulder pads.

Back: Centre back, middle back and side back panels joined by princess seams; the hem drops to a curved point at the centre back and shows below the front hem.

Finishing: A narrow yoke runs along the shoulder from the neckline to the armhole, joining front and back; seams pressed towards the yoke.

Lining: Full lining; the jacket is bagged and turned through an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve lining.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Multi-panel princess seams, a shoulder yoke, eased two-piece sleeves with sleeve heads and shoulder pads, a bagged lining and buttonholes.

Fabric Recommendations

Lightweight suiting fabric from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Firm lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, inner fronts, back neckline, sleeve hems)
6 buttons
Shoulder pads
Sleeve heads

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve hem 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

From main fabric:
- Center Back – 1 piece
- Middle Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Yoke – 2 pieces
- Inner Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 1 piece
- Middle Back Lining – 2 pieces
- Side Back Lining – 2 pieces
- Side Front Lining – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front
- Inner Front
- Back neckline area
- Sleeve hem allowance

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Fuse the back neckline.
On the back, stitch the princess seams joining the Center Back, Middle Back and Side Back pieces. Press the allowances towards the center. On the front, stitch the princess seams joining the Center Front and Side Front and press them towards the center.
Stitch the Yoke to the front and back. Press the allowances towards the Yoke.
Stitch and press open the side seams of the jacket.
Stitch the elbow seam joining the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve and press open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press open.
Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap. Sew in the shoulder pads and attach the sleeve heads.
On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Stitch the Inner Front pieces to the lining. Place the main fabric and lining right sides together and stitch along the front edge, neckline, and bottom. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
On the right front, make buttonholes and sew on decorative buttons, and on the left front, sew on buttons.