Lined Ruffled Belted Coat
A women's knee-length lined coat in raincoat fabric, fitted through princess seams and flared to the hem, with a notched collar, single-welt pockets and a belt. The back has a topstitched yoke and four tiers of ruffles on the lower back.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn as a light coat, belted at the waist.
- Over dresses and skirts, where the flared hem and the back ruffles stay visible.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted at the waist by princess seams on the front and back, flaring towards the hem; no waist seam on the front.
Length: About knee length.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels; upper and lower collar, the lapel roll line reinforced with a 1 cm fusible stay tape.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with an elbow seam. A buttoned tab is passed through a loop sewn on the sleeve near the hem.
Closure: Single-breasted, buttonholes on the right front; three buttons on the front in the drawing.
Pockets: Single-welt pockets on the side fronts, with large and small pocket bags in lining.
Back: Upper back with a centre back seam and an applied yoke, faced along its lower edge, topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge and finished with a decorative button. Lower back, also with a centre back seam, carries four ruffle tiers stitched along marked lines; princess seams run to the hem.
Waist: Belt topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge, held by belt loops at the front and back princess seams.
Finishing: Front edges and collar topstitched; front edge understitched 0.2 cm from the seam; shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining with a separate back lining, cut without the facings.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Single-welt pockets, a notched collar with stay tape on the roll line, two-piece sleeves, layered ruffles stitched to the back, a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Raincoat fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, upper collar, armhole edges, pocket area, lapel stay tape)
- 6 buttons
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve 2 cm, for pocket bag and welt edges — 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Yoke – 1 piece
- Yoke Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Sleeve Decorative Tab – 2 pieces
- Waistband (belt) – 1 piece
- Ruche 1 – 1 piece
- Ruche 2 – 1 piece
- Ruche 3 – 1 piece
- Ruche 4 – 1 piece
- Belt-Loop (strip, cut into loops after stitching) – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Lining – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Big Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Collar.
Attention: the Center Front lining is cut from the main Center Front pattern minus the width of the Center Front Facing; the Back Lining is cut minus the width of the Back Neckline Facing.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Attention: the princess seam and side seam edges are overlocked from the waist down to the hem.
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Collar and the armhole edges of the front and back. Fuse the pocket placement area on the Side Front. Along the lapel roll line on the front, apply a 1 cm wide straight-grain stay tape cut from fusible interfacing.
- Mark the pocket placement. Press the Off-Set Welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the Smaller Pocket Bag to the inner side of the welt. Stitch the welt to the Side Front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the Big Pocket Bag to the Side Front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitching should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and Big Pocket Bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
- Stitch the Center Front to the Side Front (princess seams) and press open.
- Stitch and press open the center back seams of the Upper Back and Lower Back.
- Stitch the Yoke Facing to the lower edge of the Yoke. Clip the seam allowances. Turn the facing to the wrong side, press and topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Place the Yoke on the Upper Back and attach it with a topstitch along the yoke edge.
- Overlock the lower and upper edges of Ruche 2, Ruche 3 and Ruche 4. Overlock the lower edge of Ruche 1. Turn up the lower edges of the ruches and topstitch. Place Ruche 4 on the Lower Back right sides together, with the hemmed edge of the ruche pointing upwards, and stitch along the marking. Fold the ruche down and baste it to the back along the side edges. Attach Ruche 3 and Ruche 2 in the same way. Baste Ruche 1 to the Lower Back along the upper and side edges.
- Stitch the Upper Back to the Lower Back. Press the seam allowances upwards. Stitch the Side Back to the back (princess seams). Press the seam allowances towards the side.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams.
- Stitch the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings, press the seam allowances open.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch the outer edge and ends. Clip seam allowances at the notch, turn the collar right side out and press.
- Overlock and press up the hem of the garment. Place the Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge and hem strictly along the marked line. Stitching is done upwards to the notch, which defines the end of collar insertion. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front corners. Understitch the seam allowance 0.2 cm from the seam: along the buttoning area – onto the facing, along the lapel – onto the front. Turn the facings right side out and straighten the seams. Topstitch the hem of the garment.
- Stitch the Lower Collar to the coat neckline, and the Upper Collar to the neckline edge of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings. Press the seams open. Secure the stitching seams of the upper and lower collars together. Turn the garment right side out, press.
- Overlock one long side of the Belt-Loop strip. Press the allowances to the inside, fold the strip and topstitch (overlocked edge on top). Cut into individual loops.
- Topstitch the loops onto the sleeve pieces. Stitch the Upper Sleeve to the Lower Sleeve along the elbow seam and press open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Insert sleeves into armholes according to notches. Insert shoulder pads.
- Assemble the lining pieces and set in the lining sleeves. Double fold the lining hem by 1 cm and topstitch.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Stitch the lining to the sleeve hem.
- Topstitch along the front edge and collar.
- Fold each Sleeve Decorative Tab in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch, leaving an opening. Turn the tab right side out through the opening and sew it closed. Topstitch along the contour 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Fold the Waistband (belt) in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch, leaving an opening. Turn the belt right side out through the opening and sew it closed. Topstitch along the contour 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Sew belt loops at the level of the front and back panel seams.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and on the Sleeve Decorative Tabs. Sew on the buttons to match. Sew a decorative button on the Yoke.
