Cropped Pleated 3/4 Sleeve Bolero

Name: Cropped Pleated 3/4 Sleeve Bolero
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4159
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4159

A cropped women's bolero with an open front and rounded front edges, a standing collar cut in one with the shoulder yokes, stitched pleats on the fronts below the yokes and two-piece three-quarter sleeves. Fully lined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: silk suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Cropped Pleated 3/4 Sleeve Bolero

When To Wear

Over sleeveless or strapless dresses for ceremonies, dinners and evening events.
Over a top and a high-waisted skirt in spring and summer, when a full jacket is too much.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, short body ending well above the waist; the fronts curve away from the collar to the side seams.

Collar: Standing collar cut in one with the yokes, joined by a centre back seam and stitched into the back neckline; its facing is cut in one with the front facings.

Front: Open, with no closure. A yoke at the shoulder; below it the front is stitched in pleats according to the markings and pressed to both sides to form a box pleat.

Sleeves: Three-quarter length, set-in, two-piece (upper and lower sleeve with elbow and front seams), sleeve cap eased into the armhole. Sleeve hem allowance 3.5 cm, interfaced.

Back: One piece with two vertical darts pressed towards the centre; finished with a back neckline facing and a back hem facing.

Finishing: Front edges, collar and hem faced in one seam; the seam allowance is understitched to the facing 0.2 cm from the seam. Shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

Lining: Full lining including the sleeves; the front lining is cut with the pleats folded out. The bolero is turned through an opening in the right sleeve lining seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Stitched box pleats under a yoke, a collar cut in one with the yoke and clipped at the corner, two-piece set-in sleeves with shoulder pads and sleeve heads, and bagging a full lining through the sleeve.

Fabric Recommendations

Silk suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neckline facing, back hem facing, yokes, sleeve hem allowances)
Shoulder pads
Sleeve heads

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve hem 3.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Yoke – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Hem Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Yoke – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Hem Facing – 1 piece
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Yoke – 2 pieces
- Strips for the sleeve hem allowance

Attention: Front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, minus the width of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing, respectively. When cutting the Front lining, fold the pleats out of the main Front pattern first.

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Back Hem Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Yokes and sleeve hem allowances.
On the back, stitch and press darts towards the center.
On each Front, stitch the pleats according to the markings. Press the pleat fullness to both sides, forming a box pleat. Stitch the Yoke to the Front. Overlock the seam and press it towards the Yoke.
Stitch and press open shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
Stitch the center back collar seam of the Yokes and press open. Clip the seam allowance at the Yoke corner. Stitch the collar into the back neckline. Press seam allowances open.
Stitch the Center Front Facings to the Back Neckline Facing at the shoulders and press open. Stitch the Back Hem Facing to the Center Front Facings. Press the seams open. Clip the seam allowance at the corner of the Center Front Facing. Stitch the collar part of the facings into the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing. Press seam allowances open.
Place the facings on the right side of the bolero, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edges, collar and hem. Understitch the seam allowance to the facing 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the facings to the inside and roll the seams to the edge.
Stitch the Upper Sleeve to the Lower Sleeve along the elbow seam and press open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press open.
Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
On the lining pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing and Back Hem Facing. Secure collar attachment seam allowances close to the seams.
Attach lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the bolero right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.