Shirtdress with Tabbed Short Sleeves
A contemporary shirtdress pattern featuring a flattering V-neck, gathered bodice, and an elegant pleated skirt, framed by stylish tabbed short sleeves.
When To Wear:
- Work & Business Casual: Its polished yet comfortable design makes it suitable for office environments or professional meetings.
- Daytime Events: Perfect for luncheons, garden parties, or informal social gatherings requiring smart attire.
- Smart Casual Outings: An elegant choice for shopping, museum visits, or relaxed weekend excursions.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, fitted bodice transitioning to an a-line skirt, designed to hit at knee-length.
Neckline & Collar: a sophisticated V-neck opening framed by a sharp, spread collar.
Bodice: Features soft gathers on the front bodice, elegantly pulled into the waistband for a flattering drape.
Waist: a wide, fitted waistband cinches the silhouette, providing definition.
Sleeves: Short sleeves with stylish rolled cuffs, accented by a decorative tab and button detail.
Pockets: Practical in-seam pockets are integrated into the side seams of the skirt.
Back: a clean back design with a shaped yoke and a discreet center seam.
Closure: a concealed zipper ensures a seamless finish and easy wear.
Hem: a classic straight hemline at knee-length.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Involves techniques such as collar construction, pleat formation, concealed zipper insertion, and precise cuff & tab detailing.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose light to medium-weight woven fabrics that offer both structure and a graceful drape, such as:
- Dress fabrics made from natural fibers (e.g., cotton poplin, linen blends, fine twill)
- Dress fabrics made from blended fibers (e.g., poly-cotton blends, Tencel)
- Lightweight, smooth fabrics that hold shape, reminiscent of thin trench coat material.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 1 hidden zipper
- 2 buttons (for sleeve tabs)
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: hem allowance – 2 cm, other seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.
- From main fabric:
- Upper back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 1 piece on fold
- Front insert — 1 piece
- Back insert — 1 piece
- Front sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing — 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Tab – 4 pieces
- Side – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing - 1 piece
- Collar – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the upper and lower back parts. Press darts towards the center seam. Stitch the center seam of the upper and lower back parts. Press seam to the left side and overlock. Attach the back insert to the upper and lower parts. Press seam towards the insert and overlock.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front. Press seam towards the center front and overlock. On the center and side front parts, make soft pleats according to markings and secure them at the lower edge. Pleat depths are directed towards the side seam.
- Attach the back sleeve to the back. Overlock seam and press towards the sleeve. Attach the front sleeve to the front. Overlock seam and press towards the sleeve. Stitch the upper sleeve seam. Overlock seam and press towards the back.
- Stitch shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Press seams towards the front. Overlock the outer edge of the facing and front facings. Insert the upper collar into the back and front neckline, the lower collar into the facing and front facing neckline. Press seams open.
- Place front facings right sides together with the front and stitch the front edge and collar. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn right side out and shape. Press collar and front edges. Secure the seam allowances of the upper and lower collar together close to the stitching line.
- Fold the right and left front parts along the center front line and secure the pieces together. Attach the front insert to the upper. Press seam towards the insert and overlock.
- Place the pocket bag right side in with the lower front and stitch the pocket opening. Clip seams, turn pieces right side out and press. Place the lower front with the side according to markings and align edges. Stitch and overlock pocket bag edges.
- Make soft pleats on the lower front: pleat depths are directed towards the side seams, forming a box pleat in the middle of the piece. It is recommended to make pleats from the side seam. Attach the front insert to the lower. Press seam towards the insert and overlock.
- Stitch the right side seam, simultaneously stitching the sleeve seam. Press seam allowances towards the back and overlock. Overlock the left side seams separately. Stitch the left side seam, simultaneously stitching the sleeve seam and leaving an opening for the zipper. Insert the zipper between the markings.
- Fold tab pieces right sides together and stitch 3 sides. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn pieces right side out and press. Make a buttonhole according to markings. Attach the tab to the lower edge of the sleeve, positioning the tab on the wrong side of the sleeve at the level of the upper edge.
- Fold the cuff in half and stitch into a loop. Press seam open, turn piece right side out and press. Fold the cuff in half, insert into the sleeve from the wrong side and attach to the sleeve. Overlock seam and press towards the sleeve. Turn up the cuff twice so that the finished cuff width is 5 cm. Sew a button on the sleeve corresponding to the buttonhole on the tab.
- Overlock the lower edge of the dress, fold up and topstitch. The dress is recommended to be worn with a wide belt.
