Draped Asymmetrical Sheath Dress
A women's knee-length sheath dress with a waist seam and an asymmetric two-part collar: a stand-up left part and a right part folded over the upper right front. A lined, pleated flounce is set into the seam of the left side panel, with a gathered fabric rose at the waist; short set-in sleeves with cuffs and a vent at the centre back hem.
When To Wear
- For the office, meetings and daytime events in spring and autumn.
- For dinners and family celebrations, worn with a belt (recommended).
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted sheath with a horizontal waist seam at front and back.
Length: Knee length.
Collar: Two interfaced parts. The left part is folded in half and stands around the neck; the right part, cut double, is folded over onto the upper right front with a slight fold and secured at its lower point, forming a diagonal band.
Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves with eased caps, finished with interfaced cuffs turned back to the right side.
Front: Upper left and upper right fronts with darts, joined by a centre front seam; the lower front has separate side panels. A double flounce with a pleat is caught into the seam between the left side panel and the lower front.
Closure: Zip in the centre back seam.
Back: Upper and lower back joined at the waist, with darts and a centre back seam; an interfaced vent at the hem, topstitched on the right side.
Finishing: A rose made from a strip folded in half, gathered and sewn on at the waist; hem hand-stitched with blind stitches.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. An asymmetric collar set into the neckline in stages and finished at the zip, a back vent, a flounce set into a panel seam, set-in sleeves with cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
Thin, pliable suiting fabrics from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Invisible zip
- Thin fusible woven interfacing (collar parts, cuffs, back vent)
- Belt (recommended for wearing)
Cutting Plan
- From main fabric:
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Left Front – 1 piece
- Upper Right Front – 1 piece
- Lower Front – 1 piece
- Side – 2 pieces
- Right Collar – 2 pieces
- Left Collar – 1 piece
- Flounce – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Rose – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Right Collar – 1 piece
- Left Collar – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to collar pieces.
- Stitch darts on back pieces. Press darts towards the center back seam. Stitch upper and lower back pieces together. Press seam allowance downwards and serge.
- On the left lower back, trim 5 cm along the vertical vent edge. On both lower backs, fuse interfacing to the vent allowance on the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center back seam line (the vent fold line). Press the left piece along the vent fold line. On the right piece, press only the vent allowance (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces at the center back seam and baste across the top edge of the vent. Serge the center back edge of each piece separately. Serge the vent allowances. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the vent corner. Clip the vent seam allowance at the corner on the right piece. Press the center back seam allowances open, press the vent allowances and secure them with machine stitching visible on the right side.
- Stitch darts on upper front pieces. Press darts towards the center.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Fold the left collar right sides together and stitch the center back edge from the fold to the mark. Clip seam allowances near the mark. Turn the collar right side out and press. Attach the outer layer of the left collar to the neckline.
- Place the two right collar pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge and the center back edge to the mark. Clip seam allowances near the mark. Turn the collar right side out and press. Attach the collar to the neckline: from the center back seam to mark “o”, attach only the outer collar layer; then clip the allowance of the inner layer and stitch both layers together.
- Insert the zipper into the center back seam.
- Press the open inner edge of the left collar to the wrong side and topstitch it into the attachment seam. Turn in the allowance at the center back edge and secure it to the zipper tape. Fold the left collar in half and baste along the front edge.
- Stitch the center front seam joining the upper left front and upper right front. Press the allowances towards the right front and serge. Press the open inner edge of the right collar to the wrong side and topstitch it into the attachment seam. Turn in the allowance at the center back edge and secure it to the zipper tape. Fold the right collar over the upper right front, aligning the lower point with mark “o” to create a slight fold, and secure at the lower edge.
- Place the two flounce pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer and lower edges (between marks “->”). Trim the allowances at the corner, turn the flounce right side out, and press. Lay a pleat on the flounce and baste it along the upper edge.
- Attach the sides to the lower front, inserting the flounce between the left side and the lower front. Press allowances towards the side panels, serge.
- Join the upper front to the lower front at the waist. Press allowances downwards and serge.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Press allowances and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches and easing the cap. Press allowances and serge.
- Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the ends from the fold to the mark. Trim allowances at the corner, clip at the mark. Form the cuff into a loop and stitch the sections from the mark to the edge. Turn the cuff right side out, shape, and press. Insert the cuff into the sleeve, align the cuff seam with the mark, and attach to the lower edge. Serge allowances. Turn the cuff to the right side.
- Serge the hem allowance of the dress, press to the wrong side, and hem with blind stitches. Secure the vent allowance to the hem.
- Fold the rose piece in half lengthwise, right side out, serge the edges. Stitch along the edges with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Form the piece into a rose and sew it on at the waist. The dress is recommended to be worn with a belt.
