Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: silky, well-draping fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Also needed: concealed zipper, bias tape, fusible interfacing.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances; if the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: hem allowance 2 cm, other seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need. When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Inscriptions on the patterns are on the right side.
- From main fabric:
- Upper front part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part right – 1 piece
- Lower front part left – 1 piece
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing — 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the back neckline facing and the integrated neckline facings of the upper front part. Overlock the outer edge of the back facing and the outer edge of the integrated facing of the upper front part. Press the facings to the wrong side.
- Stitch darts on the back pieces. Press darts towards the center seam. Stitch the upper back parts. Overlock the seam and press it to the left side. Stitch the lower back parts. Overlock the seam and press it to the left side. Stitch the upper and lower back parts. Overlock the seam and press it downwards.
- On the front pieces, in section “2”, snip the seam allowance near the marks, overlock this section, turn under and topstitch.
- On the left upper front part, unfold the integrated facing. Fold the upper and lower left front parts together and align the section between the round marks. Stitch this section, and, continuing the stitch to the end, attach the integrated front facing to the skirt. Note that the seam lengths should not match. Overlock the seam.
- Stitch the right front parts from the side seam to the first mark. Overlock the seam and press it downwards.
- Stitch the vertical edges of the lower front parts. Overlock the seam and press it.
- On the right upper front part, unfold the integrated facing. Between the round marks, create soft, arbitrary pleats. Even out the resulting length with section “3”. Fold the facing back into place and topstitch the created pleats onto it. Stitch the right front parts: the section with pleats on the upper part and section “3” on the lower part. Ensure that no pleats are formed on the integrated facing.
- Thread the pieces one into another, as shown in the illustration. Create soft, arbitrary pleats on the left front part in the section between the round marks. Secure the pleats with the integrated facing.
- Stitch the section from the side seam to the first mark on the left front part. Overlock the seam and press it downwards.
- Face the back neckline with the facing, snip the pieces, turn out and press. Stitch the shoulder seams, inserting the front shoulder edge (together with the facing) between the back shoulder edge and the neckline facing. Overlock the seams and press them towards the back.
- Cut (if not ready-made) bias tape 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 5 cm. Fold the bias tape in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the bias tape with the armhole edge right side together and stitch. Fold the bias tape to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Overlock the edges of the left side seam. Stitch the left side seam, leaving an opening for the zipper between the triangular marks. Press the seam open. Insert the zipper.
- Stitch the right side edge. Overlock the seam and press it towards the back. Place bar tacks at the side seam at armhole level.
- Fold the bottom edge of the garment twice by 1 cm and topstitch.
