Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: thin suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. Also needed: concealed zipper, 3 hooks and eyes, fusible interfacing, bias tape 4 cm wide.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: hem allowance for the dress bottom – 2.0 cm, other seams 1 cm; Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). Inscriptions on the patterns are on the right side.
- From main fabric:
- Center back part - 2 pieces
- Side back part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 1 piece
- Upper front part - 1 piece
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back and front neckline facings.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Interface the facing pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Overlock the center back seam allowance. Stitch the center seam from the notch for the zipper to the bottom. Press the seam open, pressing the zipper opening flat. Insert the zipper from the top edge to the notch.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press the seam towards the center and overlock.
- On the upper front part, fold and stitch the pleats. Press their depths open. On the lower front part, fold and secure the pleats. Press the depths towards the side seam. Stitch the upper and lower front parts together, press allowances downwards and overlock.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Cut (if not ready-made) bias tape 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length of the back and front + 5cm. Fold the bias tape in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the bias tape with the armhole edge on the right side and stitch, fold the bias tape to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch the side seams. Press allowances towards the back and overlock. Place a bar tack on the side seam at the armhole.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the facings. Press allowances open, overlock the outer edge. Place the facings on the right side of the dress and stitch the neckline. Clip the allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side. Attach the facing to the shoulder seams and zipper tape.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the dress, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening for turning and inserting hooks and eyes into the short ends. Trim allowances at the corners. Turn the belt right side out, straighten the corners and press. Stitch the technical opening closed.
