Dress with Horizontal Trim Lines

Dress with Horizontal Trim Lines

A women's long dress with a fitted bodice joined to a flared skirt at the waist. Bias tape covers the centre front seam and the sleeve flounce seams, decorative trim runs along the waist seam and in two rows across the skirt, and a concealed zip closes the centre back.

When To Wear

• In spring and summer for daytime outings and family celebrations, with sandals or flat shoes.
• In early autumn with ankle boots and a short jacket.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice shaped with darts on the front and back; flared skirt.

Length: Below mid-calf.

Neckline: Round neckline bound with bias tape, folded to the right side and topstitched.

Sleeves: Set-in sleeves to just below the elbow, finished with a flared cuff; bias tape is topstitched over the cuff seam and binds the cuff edge.

Front: Upper front with a centre seam covered by topstitched bias tape; lower front cut in one piece on the fold.

Closure: Concealed zip in the centre back seam.

Back: Upper and lower back joined at the waist, with a centre back seam.

Waist: Waist seam covered with topstitched decorative trim.

Skirt: Flared, with decorative trim stitched on along marked lines to give a tiered look.

Finishing: Skirt hem bound with bias tape, no hem allowance.

Level Of Difficulty

Beginner. Darts, a concealed zip, bias binding and topstitching trim along marked lines; the bodice and skirt seams are straightforward.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

• Concealed zip
• Bias tape (approximate length given on the lower front pattern piece)
• Decorative trim (approximate length given on the lower front pattern piece)

Cutter’s Must

From main fabric:

1. Upper back – 2 pieces
2. Lower back – 2 pieces
3. Upper front – 2 pieces
4. Lower front – 1 piece on fold
5. Sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Cuff – 2 pieces

Important Information

First of all, print the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width may be from 90 cm to 150 cm) in order to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to consider paired and symmetrical pieces).

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches – they must match.

Assembly Instructions

1. Stitch darts on the upper front and upper back pieces. Trim dart intake to 1 cm, press toward the center and finish.
2. Stitch upper and lower back pieces, press seam allowances upward and finish.
3. Finish separately the center edges of the back. Stitch center back seam from zipper mark to bottom, press seam allowances open. Insert zipper.
4. Stitch center seam of upper front, press seam allowances open and finish. Topstitch bias tape onto the seam. Stitch upper and lower front pieces, press seam allowances upward and finish.
5. Stitch shoulder and side seams of the garment, press seam allowances toward the back and finish.
6. Prepare bias tape for neckline finishing equal to neckline length + 4 cm. Fold and press bias tape. Attach bias tape to neckline from the wrong side and stitch. Fold to the right side and topstitch along the edge onto the main fabric.
7. Attach cuff to sleeve, press seam allowances upward and finish. Topstitch bias tape onto the seam. Stitch sleeve seam, press seam allowances toward the back and finish. Set sleeves into armholes, press and finish.
8. Finish the hem of the garment and cuffs with bias tape.
9. Topstitch decorative trim onto the waist seam. Topstitch decoration onto lower panels according to markings.