Peplum Vest with Shawl Collar

Peplum Vest with Shawl Collar

A sleeveless women's vest with a shawl collar cut in one with the fronts, a three-button front and a bodice shaped by princess seams, joined at the waist to a flared peplum.

When To Wear

• Over a shirt or blouse, or on its own, with trousers or a straight skirt for work.
• With a matching skirt or trousers as a two-piece in spring and summer.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice with princess seams from the armholes, a seam at the waist and a flared peplum below it.

Length: Peplum ending at the high hip.

Collar: Shawl collar cut in one with the fronts, with a centre back seam; faced by the front facings and back neck facing.

Sleeves: Sleeveless; armholes finished with a 4 cm folded bias strip turned to the inside and topstitched.

Closure: Single-breasted, three buttons with buttonholes on the right front. Below the last button the front edges part.

Back: Upper back with a centre back seam and princess seams; lower back (peplum) cut on the fold.

Finishing: Front edges, collar and lower front corners faced; hem overlocked, turned up and topstitched. Unlined.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A faced shawl collar cut in one with the fronts, princess seams matched to a waist seam, bias-finished armholes and buttonholes.

Fabric Recommendations

Dense dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

• Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing)
• 3 buttons
• Bias strip 4 cm wide, cut from the main fabric or ready-made

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Upper center back – 2 pieces
2. Upper side back – 2 pieces
3. Lower back – 1 piece with fold
4. Upper center front – 2 pieces
5. Upper side front – 2 pieces
6. Lower front – 2 pieces
7. Center front facing – 2 pieces
8. Back neckline facing – 1 piece

From Fusible Interfacing:

1. Center front facing – 2 pieces
2. Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Important Information

First of all, print the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width may be from 90 cm to 150 cm) in order to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to consider paired and symmetrical pieces).

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches – they must match.

Assembly Instructions

1. Duplicate parts with fusible interlining.
2. Stitch the center seam of the upper back, press allowances to the left side, overlock. Stitch the princess seams of the upper back, press allowances towards the center, overlock. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press allowances upwards, overlock.
3. Stitch the princess seams of the upper front, press allowances towards the center, overlock. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press allowances upwards, overlock.
4. Stitch the collar seam, folding the front pieces right sides together, press allowances open. Stitch and press open shoulder seams, overlock allowances. Clip the shoulder seam allowance on the front and stitch the collar into the back neckline, press allowances towards the collar.
5. Stitch, clip at the corner and press open the shoulder edges of the back neckline facing and center front facings. Stitch the collar edge, press allowances open. Stitch the collar into the facing neckline, press allowances open. Overlock the outer edge of the center front facings and back neckline facing.
6. Fold the center front facings and back neckline facing with the main garment right sides together and stitch the front edge, collar, and bottom corner. Trim allowances at corners, clip at curves. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten seams, press. Secure the collar attachment allowances together.
7. Cut (if not ready-made) bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right side together and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
8. Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
9. Overlock the bottom edge of the product, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
10. On the right front, work buttonholes, on the left – sew on buttons.