Vest with Asymmetric Closure and Pleats

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dense dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 4 buttons, 1 inner button.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 2 cm; other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper center back – 2 pieces
  • Upper side back – 2 pieces
  • Back waistband – 1 piece
  • Lower back – 1 piece
  • Right center front – 1 piece
  • Right side front – 1 piece
  • Left center front – 1 piece
  • Left side front – 1 piece
  • Front waistband – 1 piece
  • Lower front – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Welt – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Welt – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the princess seams on the back pieces, press seam allowances towards the center, overcast. Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances to the left side, overcast.
3. Attach the waistband to the upper back, press seam allowances towards the waistband, overcast. On the lower back, create and secure pleats. Attach the lower back to the waistband, press seam allowances towards the waistband, overcast.
4. Stitch the princess seams on the front pieces, press seam allowances towards the center, overcast.
5. Attach the waistband to the left upper front, press seam allowances towards the waistband, overcast. On the lower front, create and secure pleats. Attach the lower front to the waistband, press seam allowances towards the waistband, overcast.
6. Mark the position of the welt on the right front. Fold the welt in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and stitch the short sides. Turn the piece right side out, straighten, press. Overcast the lower edge. Place the welt on the front with the fold down, aligning the stitching lines on the front and welt, stitch. Fold the welt up and topstitch it to the front along the short sides.
7. Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
8. Stitch shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings, press seam allowances open. Overcast the outer edge. Place the facing and front facing on the right side of the garment and stitch the neckline, front edge, and lower corner. Clip seam allowances, trim corners, turn facings and front facings to the wrong side and press. Stitch the facing to the center back seam and shoulder seams.
9. Cut (or use ready-made) bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise with right sides out and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge on the right side and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip seam allowances, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
10. Stitch side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
11. Overcast the hem of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
12. Overcast buttonholes on the right front, sew buttons on the left front. Overcast the inner buttonhole on the left front, sew the inner button.