Western Yoke Button Down Blouse
A women's hip-length shirt blouse with shaped western-style yokes on the front and back, a shirt collar on a stand and separate front plackets. The pointed lower edge of each front yoke buttons over a patch pocket with an inverted pleat.
When To Wear
- With jeans or trousers for everyday wear, in spring and autumn.
- Tucked into a skirt, or worn open over a T-shirt.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, semi-fitted shirt shape; back shaped with darts below the yoke.
Length: Hip length, straight hem.
Collar: Two-piece shirt collar on a stand, fastened with a button on the stand.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with a slit, pleats at the lower edge and buttoned cuffs.
Front: Separate plackets, folded in half and topstitched; buttonholes on the right front, buttons on the left.
Yokes: Front yokes cut double, with a pointed lower edge topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge; back yoke with a V-shaped lower edge, topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.
Pockets: Two patch pockets with an inverted pleat at the centre, set under the front yokes; the point of each yoke acts as a flap and closes with a buttonhole and button.
Back: Back cut on the fold, with darts.
Finishing: Hem turned twice by 1 cm and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Collar on a stand, applied front plackets, sleeve slits with cuffs, faced shaped yokes, pleated patch pockets, eleven buttonholes.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (collar, collar stand, cuffs, plackets)
- 11 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and top of the pocket – 2 cm; other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back - 1 piece on fold
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 4 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar — 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar — 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the back, press seam allowances towards the center. Attach the yoke to the back. Overlock seam allowances and press upwards. Topstitch along the yoke 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Form and secure the inverted pleat on the pocket. Overlock the upper edge. Fold the upper edge inwards and topstitch. Fold the side and bottom seam allowances of the pocket inwards. Place the pocket on the right side of the front and topstitch according to markings.
- Place front yokes right sides together in pairs and stitch the lower shaped edge. Clip seam allowances, turn pieces right side out and press. Topstitch along the lower edge 0.5 cm from the edge. Make buttonhole. Place the yoke on the right side of the front and secure along the front edge, armhole, and shoulder edges.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Fold the placket piece in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Attach the outer side of the placket to the front, press seam allowances towards the placket. Fold the seam allowance of the inner side of the placket inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Place the upper collar with the undercollar right sides together, stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim seams, turn collar right side out, shape and press. Place collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align notches and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Turn the finished collar right side out and press. Attach the upper collar stand with the collar to the neckline, fold the open edge of the lower collar stand inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam of the upper collar stand.
- Overlock sleeve seams separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the top to the slit mark. Press seam allowances open. Topstitch along the slit to secure. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and overlock. Form and secure pleats on the lower edge of the sleeve.
- Place the cuff piece right side in and stitch the side edges. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked line of the cuff attachment seam. Trim seam allowances. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the seam allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam of the outer cuff.
- Fold the bottom hem of the garment inwards by 1 cm, then by another 1 cm and topstitch.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, on the left – sew on buttons. Make buttonholes and sew on buttons on the cuffs and collar stand. Sew buttons on the pockets.
