Fitted Jacket with Rounded Collar

Name: Fitted Jacket with Rounded Collar
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2601
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2601

A short, fitted women's jacket with princess seams front and back, a wide collar whose front ends are gathered into pleats at the centre front, and a single-breasted four-button closure. Fully lined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Fitted Jacket with Rounded Collar

A short, fitted women's jacket with princess seams front and back, a wide collar whose front ends are gathered into pleats at the centre front, and a single-breasted four-button closure. Fully lined.

When To Wear

Over a dress or with a high-waisted skirt or trousers: the jacket ends just below the waist.
For office wear and daytime events in spring and autumn.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close-fitting, shaped by princess seams from the armhole on the front and the back.

Length: Short, ending just below the waist.

Collar: Wide collar cut on the fold, rounded over the back. Its straight front section is stitched to the centre front panel with loose pleats, forming a gathered detail at the neck.

Front: Centre front, side front and a separate front band; facings stitched along the front edge, neckline and rounded lower corner, understitched 0.2 cm from the seam.

Closure: Single-breasted, four buttons.

Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with one seam, cap eased into the armhole; shoulder pads.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams; back neck facing.

Lining: Full lining of body and sleeves, attached to the facings and hems, with a turning opening in the left sleeve seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams, a pleated collar end set into the front, an eased sleeve cap and bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front bands, facings, back neck facing, collar)
Shoulder pads
4 buttons

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, the patterns include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:

Center back – 2 pieces
Side back – 2 pieces
Side front – 2 pieces
Center front – 2 pieces
Front band – 2 pieces
Sleeve – 2 pieces
Front facing – 2 pieces
Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Collar – 2 pieces with fold

From lining fabric:

Center back – 2 pieces
Side back – 2 pieces
Side front – 2 pieces
Center front – 2 pieces
Sleeve – 2 pieces

Attention: Back and front pieces from lining are cut according to the main pattern pieces, subtracting the width of the back neckline facing and front facing, respectively.

From fusible interlining:

Center front – 2 pieces
Front band – 2 pieces
Front facing – 2 pieces
Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Collar – 1 piece with fold

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances open. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open.
Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the edge and outer edge. Trim allowances, turn right side out, and press.
Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances open.
Stitch and press shoulder seams open. Attach the collar to the neckline of the front and back. Attach the straight section of the collar to the center front, creating arbitrary pleats.
Attach the front band to the center front. Press allowances towards the center.
Stitch side seams. Press allowances open.
Stitch and press shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings open. Place the front facings with the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch the front edge, neckline, and lower corner of the front edge. Trim seams at corners, clip curves. Topstitch the allowance of the front edge seam to the front facing. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, smooth the seams. Press the bottom of the garment.
Press the sleeve hem. Turn back the hem allowance, stitch and press open the sleeve seam.
Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
On the lining pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the left elbow seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing.
Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening closed.
Make buttonholes and sew on buttons.