Mandarin Collar Dress with Side Slits

Name: Mandarin Collar Dress with Side Slits
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2572
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2572

A women's knee-length sheath dress with a mandarin stand collar and an asymmetric curved upper front fastened with rouleau loops and buttons. Back princess seams, a concealed zip at centre back and slits at the side seams. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Mandarin Collar Dress with Side Slits

When To Wear

Office wear in autumn and spring.
Daytime occasions, with the button line as the only trim.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close-fitting sheath, shaped by bust and waist darts at the front and princess seams at the back.

Length: Knee length, with side slits.

Collar: Interfaced mandarin stand of two pieces, the inner stand stitched in the ditch of the attaching seam.

Front: The front overlaps a separate upper front piece along a curved edge running from the collar to the armhole, finished with bias binding. Three rouleau loops fasten over buttons; the remaining buttons are decorative.

Sleeves: Set-in sleeves with darts at the cap, below the elbow in the drawing; hem turned up and topstitched.

Closure: Concealed zip in the centre back seam.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.

Finishing: 3 cm allowances at the hem and along the slits; slit corners faced and the slits and hem slip-stitched by hand.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Rouleau loops, a bias-bound curved overlap, a mandarin stand, a concealed zip and faced slit corners.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (collar stand)
Concealed zip
5 buttons
Bias binding, 4 cm wide (or cut from the main fabric)

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the garment and sleeve – 3.0 cm. Allowance along the back and front slit – 3.0 cm. Allowance along the bottom edge of the upper front – 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:

Center Back – 2 pieces
Side Back – 2 pieces
Front – 1 piece
Upper Front – 1 piece
Sleeve – 2 pieces
Stand Collar – 2 pieces

From fusible interfacing:

Stand Collar – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to one Stand Collar piece.
Stitch the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back), press the allowances towards the center, serge.
Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the neckline to the first mark and from the second mark down to the hem, press the allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper between the marks.
Stitch the darts on the Front and Upper Front, press the waist darts towards the center of each piece and the bust darts upwards.
Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 30 cm long for the rouleau loops. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim the allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and straighten the rouleau. Cut it into three parts and adjust the loop length. Stitch the loops onto the upper edge of the Front.
Cut (if not ready-made) a bias strip 4 cm wide and as long as the upper edge of the Front plus 4 cm. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Place the binding on the right side of the upper edge of the Front, raw edges matching, and stitch. Turn the binding to the wrong side and topstitch it to the Front along the fold. Press the seam. Serge the lower edge of the Upper Front. Place the Front over the Upper Front, matching the seam lines, and topstitch from the side edge to the mark.
Stitch the shoulder seams, press the allowances towards the back and serge.
Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge. Clip the allowances, turn the stand right side out, straighten and press. Stitch the outer stand to the neckline, press the allowances towards the stand. Turn the allowance of the inner stand under and stitch it in place through the attachment seam.
Stitch the darts at the Sleeve cap, press them towards the center. Set the sleeves into the armholes, clipping the allowances at the corners; press the allowances and serge.
Serge the side edges separately. Stitch the side seams and the sleeve seams in one pass, press the allowances open. Serge the hem edge of the dress, stitch the lower corners of the slits, turn them right side out, straighten and press. Slipstitch the slit edges and the hem by hand.
Serge the sleeve hem edge, press it to the wrong side and topstitch.
Sew the buttons onto the Upper Front to match the loops, then sew on the decorative buttons.