Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the garment bottom – 2.0 cm. Hem allowance for the sleeve bottom – 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Back insert – 2 pieces
  • Lower center back part - 2 pieces
  • Lower side back part - 2 pieces
  • Lower side front part – 2 pieces
  • Lower center front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Front insert – 1 piece on fold
  • Upper front part – 2 pieces
  • Yoke – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 4 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch darts on the upper back pieces, press allowances towards the center of the pieces. Attach the back insert to the upper back, press allowances towards the insert and overcast.
3. Stitch the princess seams of the lower back, press allowances towards the center, overcast. Attach the lower back to the back insert, press allowances upwards and overcast.
4. Overcast the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the neckline to the first mark and from the second mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
5. On the upper front pieces, create and secure pleats (depths directed towards the center). Attach the yoke to the upper front, press allowances towards the yoke and overcast.
6. Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
7. Stitch collar pieces in pairs, press allowances open. Fold collars right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip allowances, turn collar right side out, shape, press. Attach collar to the neckline.
8. Attach the front insert to the upper front, press allowances towards the insert and overcast.
9. Stitch the princess seams of the lower front, press allowances towards the center, overcast. Attach the lower front to the front insert, press allowances upwards and overcast.
10. Stitch shoulder seams of neckline facings, press allowances open. Overcast the outer edge. Place facing and garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge, clip allowances. Turn facing to the wrong side, shape, press. Secure facing to the main garment at shoulder seams, center back seam.
11. Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
12. Overcast the sleeve hem, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances and overcast. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and overcast.
13. Overcast the garment hem, press to the wrong side and topstitch.