Sleeveless Asymmetrical Wrap Blouse
A women's sleeveless hip-length blouse with a front yoke, an asymmetric lapped front with a curved lower edge and a welt pocket with flap. The neckline and armholes are finished with bias binding; the back has a yoke and a button-and-loop neck opening.
When To Wear
- In summer on its own, with trousers or a straight skirt.
- Under a jacket or cardigan for the office in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, slightly widening towards the hem, shaped with bust darts from the side seams.
Length: Hip length; the back is longer than the front by the width of the hem allowance.
Neckline: Round, finished with a folded bias strip 4 cm wide, turned to the inside and topstitched.
Sleeves: Sleeveless; the armholes are finished with bias strips in the same way as the neckline.
Front: A horizontal front yoke above two separate front pieces. The right front laps over the left front, its outer and lower edges turned in and topstitched; the lower edge curves down across the front. Both fronts are caught into the yoke seam, so the front does not open. One decorative button sits at the top of the overlap.
Pockets: One welt pocket with flap on the left front, below the overlap, with interfaced facings and pocket bags of main fabric.
Back: Cut on the fold, with a back yoke in two halves. At the centre back the yoke halves form a neck opening that closes with one button and a bias rouleau loop.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A welt pocket with flap, a lapped front set into a yoke seam, bias binding on the neckline and armholes, and a rouleau loop.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse or dress fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (flap, pocket facings)
- 1 button (back neck opening)
- 1 decorative button (front)
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, the patterns include seam allowances; if the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; allowance along the outer edges of the left and right front pieces – 1.2 cm; allowance for hemming the bottom of the garment – 1.2 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). Attention! Markings on the patterns are on the right side!
- From main fabric:
- Back Yoke – 2 pieces
- Back – 1 piece (cut on fold)
- Front Yoke – 1 piece
- Right Front – 1 piece
- Left Front – 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
- Pocket Facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Bias strips for the loop, neckline and armholes – cut by measurement (see steps)
- From fusible interfacing:
- Flap – 1 piece
- Pocket Facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to one Flap piece and both Pocket Facings.
- Stitch the darts on the Right Front and Left Front and press them upwards.
- Overlock the outer and lower edges of the Left Front and Right Front. Press the allowances to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Place the two Flap pieces right sides together and stitch the side and lower edges. Clip the allowances, turn the flap right side out, straighten, press.
- Mark the pocket placement. Fold the Pocket Facings in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Mark a stitching line on each facing parallel to the fold. Mark a stitching line on the flap parallel to its upper edge, keeping the flap width even along its length. Mark guide lines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and facings. Stitch one Pocket Bag to the flap. Stitch the facings to the Left Front. The ends of the stitches should finish at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of the facing attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Through the resulting opening, turn the facings to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the facings so that the pressed folds of the facings meet flush with each other. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Insert the flap into the opening and stitch it to the upper pocket facing. Stitch the second Pocket Bag to the lower facing seam allowance. Trim the pocket bags even, stitch them together and overlock the allowances.
- On the Right Front, fold the outer edge to the inside at the mark. Lap the Right Front over the Left Front and baste them together along the upper edges. Stitch the Front Yoke to the fronts, press the allowances upwards and overlock.
- Overlock the center back edges of the Back Yokes, press them to the wrong side and topstitch. Stitch the Back Yokes to the Back, press the allowances upwards and overlock.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press the allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 10 cm long for the loop. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim the allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and straighten the rouleau. Adjust the loop length.
- Cut a bias strip 4 cm wide and the neckline length + 4 cm long. Fold it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Place it along the neckline on the right side, raw edges aligned and ends extending, and stitch. Clip the seam allowances, turn the strip to the wrong side and topstitch along its fold. Press. Attach the loop to the left Back Yoke.
- Cut bias strips 4 cm wide and the armhole length + 4 cm long. Fold each in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Place it along the armhole on the right side, raw edges aligned and ends extending, and stitch. Clip the seam allowances, turn the strip to the wrong side and topstitch along its fold. Press.
- Stitch the side seams (the back is longer than the front by the width of the lower allowance), press the allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Overlock the hem allowance of the back, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Sew the button onto the right Back Yoke. Sew the decorative button onto the Right Front.
