Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics with elastane from natural or blended fibers. Knitted fabrics with low stretch from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams 1 cm. Hem allowance and sleeve hem – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back - 1 piece on fold
- Front - 1 piece on fold
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Back waistband – 2 pieces
- Front waistband – 2 pieces
- Inner tie – 2 pieces
- Outer tie – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
Tip: Cut pieces from knitted fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When overlocking, trim seam allowances to 0.6 – 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity.
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the back neckline facing to the back, press seam allowances towards the facing. Stitch the outer back waistband to the back, press seam allowances towards the waistband.
- Stitch the front neckline facing to the front, press seam allowances towards the facing.
- Fold the inner tie right sides together and stitch along the side edges. Clip seam allowances, trim corners, turn the tie right side out, straighten, and press. Fold the outer tie right sides together and stitch along the side edges. Clip seam allowances, trim corners, turn the tie right side out, straighten, and press.
- Fold the front waistband right sides together and stitch the lower edge, inserting the outer tie. Stitch the cutout of the front waistband. Clip seam allowances at the curves, turn the waistband right side out, straighten, and press.
- Place the front waistband over the inner tie and secure along the upper edge. Stitch the front waistband to the front, press and overcast seam allowances.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch shoulder seams of inner neckline facings, press seam allowances open. Overcast the outer edge. Place the garment with the facing right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip seam allowances at the curves, turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Topstitch the inner facing into the seam of the outer facing.
- Overcast the upper edge of the inner back waistband. Place the inner back waistband over the outer and stitch the lower edge. Start and end the stitch exactly at the marked side seam line. Stitch side seams simultaneously with the sleeve seam, inserting the front between the back and the inner back waistband, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast. Turn the waistband right side out and topstitch into the seam of the outer waistband.
- Overcast the lower edge of the sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Pass the outer tie through the opening in the waistband and tie a knot.
