Tailored Blazer with Two-Tone Contoured Lapels

Name: Tailored Blazer with Two-Tone Contoured Lapels
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2506
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2506

A fitted, hip-length women's denim jacket with separate lapels on a small stand collar, a contrast-fabric front insert along the lapel, front and back princess seams topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam, and two-piece sleeves with buttoned cuffs. Single-breasted, two buttons. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: denim of natural or blended fibres; a contrasting fabric for the front insert.

Tech. Description

Two-Tone Shaped Blazer

When To Wear

Spring and autumn over a T-shirt or blouse with jeans or a skirt.
Casual office days with trousers.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted at the waist by princess seams at front and back.

Length: To the hip, with the front edges cut away into a curve below the lower button.

Collar: A two-piece stand set into the neckline, with lapels cut from four pieces stitched onto the centre front at the neckline.

Front: Upper front, side front and centre front pieces; an insert in contrast fabric is set into the front beside the lapel. Single-breasted closure with two buttons and buttonholes on the right front.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves; the elbow seam is topstitched 0.5 cm above a mark and left open below it as a slit edge-stitched at 0.1 cm, finished with a cuff, buttonhole and button.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams, all topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.

Finishing: Front facings and back neck facing interfaced and stitched along the front edges, neckline and hem; the facing seam is understitched 0.2 cm from the seam. Seams overlocked, unlined.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A contrast insert set in at a clipped corner, separate lapels on a stand collar, even topstitching on denim, and a faced front and hem.

Fabric Recommendations

Denim of natural or blended fibres; a contrasting fabric for the front insert.

Additional Supplies

Contrast fabric for the front insert
Fusible interfacing (front facings, lapels, back neck facing)
4 buttons

Cutter's Must

Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:

Center back – 2 pieces
Side back – 2 pieces
Side front – 2 pieces
Upper front – 2 pieces
Center front – 2 pieces
Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Cuff – 2 pieces
Front facing – 2 pieces
Lapel – 4 pieces
Collar stand – 2 pieces
Back neckline facing – 1 piece

From contrasting fabric:

Front insert – 2 pieces

From fusible interfacing:

Front facing – 2 pieces
Lapel – 2 pieces
Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center, serge and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left, serge and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
Attach the upper front to the side front, press allowances upwards, serge and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center, serge and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
Attach the front insert to the front, clipping the allowance at the corner. Press allowances towards the insert, serge.
Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
Fold lapel pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip allowances, turn lapels right side out, shape and press. Fold collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip allowances, turn collar stand right side out, shape and press.
Place lapels onto the center front and topstitch to the neckline edge. Attach the collar stand to the neckline.
Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Fold front facing with the main garment right sides together, pin and stitch the front edge, front neckline, back neckline, and hem. Stitching is done from the front side. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge to the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front facing to the wrong side, shape, and press. Secure to the main garment at the shoulder seams.
Serge the elbow edges of the sleeve separately. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve from the cap to the mark, clip allowances at the mark. On the section from the cap to the mark, press allowances and topstitch 0.5 cm along the seam. On the section from the mark to the hem, press allowances open and topstitch 0.1 cm along the edges. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve, press allowances towards the lower and serge. Set sleeves into armholes matching notches, press allowances and serge.
Fold cuff pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn cuff right side out, shape and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, press allowances towards the cuff. Press the allowance of the inner side to the wrong side and topstitch into the attachment seam.
On the right front, make buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons. Make buttonholes and sew on buttons on the cuffs.