Paneled Midi Dress with Waist Seam
A women's midi dress with long set-in sleeves, a panelled bodice with a front yoke and princess seams, an inset waistband and a flared skirt with two large patch pockets that have bias-bound slanted openings. Concealed zipper at the centre back.
When To Wear
- At the office in autumn and winter, with boots or court shoes.
- For daytime events and family celebrations.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted bodice, seamed waist, skirt flaring to the hem.
Length: Midi, below the knee.
Neckline: Round, finished with front and back neck facings.
Front: A yoke across the chest; below it the upper front has a centre front seam, princess seams and bust darts. The lower front is cut in one piece on the fold.
Waist: A separate waistband piece is set between bodice and skirt, front and back.
Pockets: Two patch pockets on the front skirt. The slanted openings are bound with a 4 cm bias strip folded in half; the upper and side edges of each pocket are caught into the waistband and side seams.
Sleeves: Long, one-piece, set-in.
Back: Princess seams on the upper back, a centre back seam from neck to hem with a concealed zipper.
Finishing: Hems of the dress (1.5 cm) and sleeves (2 cm) turned up and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Many bodice panels to match, an inset waistband, bias-bound pocket openings and a concealed zipper.
Fabric Recommendations
Dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (neck facings, pocket opening allowances)
- Concealed zipper
- Bias binding 4 cm wide, if not cut from the main fabric
Cutter's Must
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
From main fabric:
- Upper center back - 2 pieces
- Upper side back - 2 pieces
- Back waistband - 2 pieces
- Lower back - 2 pieces
- Front yoke — 1 piece
- Upper center front — 2 pieces
- Upper side front — 2 pieces
- Front waistband - 1 piece
- Lower front — 1 piece on fold
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center and serge. Attach the back waistband to the upper, press allowances onto the waistband and serge. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press allowances open, pressing the slit for the zipper. Insert the zipper.
- Stitch the bust darts on the front, press depths upwards. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center and serge. Stitch the center seam of the upper front, press allowances to the left side and serge.
- Attach the yoke to the front, press allowances upwards and serge. Attach the front waistband to the upper, press allowances onto the waistband and serge.
- Interface the pocket opening allowance with fusible interfacing. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the pocket opening length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the pocket opening edge right sides together and stitch. Clip allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam. Serge the middle and lower sides of the pocket, press to the wrong side. Place the pocket according to markings on the front skirt and topstitch. Secure the upper and side edges of the pocket to the skirt edges.
- Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings, press allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place the facing with the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip allowances at curves, turn pieces to the right side, straighten, and press. Secure the facing to the main garment at the shoulder seams and zipper tape.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and serge.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
