Voluminous Ruffle Sleeve Blouse
A women's button-front blouse with a shirt collar on a stand, darts front and back, and long two-tier sleeves: a fitted upper sleeve and a gathered lower sleeve with a frilled heading, gathered again into a buttoned cuff.
When To Wear
- For the office, with a pencil skirt or tailored trousers.
- Under a sleeveless dress or pinafore in autumn, with the sleeves on show.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by a bust dart on each front and vertical darts on the back.
Length: Hip length, straight hem.
Collar: Shirt collar with pointed ends on a separate collar stand, topstitched 0.1 cm from the edge; the stand buttons.
Sleeves: Set-in, long, in two parts. The lower sleeve is gathered along its top edge and laid over the upper sleeve, leaving a frill above the seam. The lower sleeve has a cut-on placket for the slit and is gathered into a cuff with a button.
Front: Separate front plackets with buttons and buttonholes, edge-stitched 0.1 cm along the front opening.
Back: Centre back seam and two vertical darts.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Collar on a stand, separate front plackets, a gathered two-tier sleeve with a slit, and cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse fabrics of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (front plackets, cuffs, collar stand, collar)
- 11 buttons
Cutter's Must
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front - 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front placket – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 4 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front placket – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Collar – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the back. Press dart depths towards the center. Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the allowance and press to the left side.
- Stitch the dart on the front. Press the dart depth upwards.
- Press the front placket lengthwise in half, right side out. Attach the inner side of the placket to the front, press allowances towards the placket. Turn the edge of the outer placket inwards and topstitch into the seam of attaching the inner placket. Topstitch 0.1 cm along the edge of the front opening.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Fold collar pieces right sides together, stitch the ends and the outer edge. Trim allowances at corners. Turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Topstitch 0.1 cm from the edge. Fold collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the prepared collar between them and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the stand. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked seam line for attaching the stand. Turn the prepared collar right side out and press. Attach the outer stand to the neckline, turn under the raw edge of the inner stand and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the upper sleeve. Overlock the top edge of the lower sleeve. Press the integrated placket of the lower sleeve to the wrong side and press. Stitch with loosened upper thread along the marked line and gather. Lay the lower sleeve over the upper, align allowances and topstitch. Overlock sleeve edges separately. Stitch the seam from the armhole to the slit mark. Press allowances open. Topstitch 0.2 cm along the slit edge. Set sleeves into armholes. Overlock allowances and press. Along the bottom edge of the sleeve, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather.
- Fold cuff pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch the bottom and short sides. Trim allowances. Turn the cuff right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, turn under the allowance of the inner side of the cuff and topstitch into the seam of attaching the outer cuff.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, sew buttons on the left front. Make buttonholes and sew buttons on the collar stand and cuffs.
