Wide Leg Trousers
Full-length women's wide-leg trousers on a folded straight waistband, with a fly-front zipper, slanted front pockets cut with a side piece, and pressed creases on the front and back legs.
When To Wear
- For the office in spring, autumn and winter, with a blouse or a jacket in matching suiting.
- With a fitted knit top or a shirt tucked in, since the waistband sits on show.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Wide legs that fall straight from the hip.
Length: Full length.
Waist: Straight one-piece waistband, interfaced and folded in half lengthwise; the overlocked inner edge is stitched in the ditch of the attachment seam. Fastened with a trouser hook and bar.
Front: Fly-front zipper with a cut-on fly facing on the right front and a folded fly shield (button catch) on the left; the fly is topstitched and bar-tacked at the end.
Pockets: Slanted pockets at the side: the opening is faced with the pocket bag, topstitched 0.1 cm from the edge and backed with a side piece; the opening is reinforced with 1 cm fusible stay tape.
Back: One dart on each back half, pressed towards the centre; centre back seam.
Legs: Pressed creases on the front and back of each leg; side seams and inseams pressed towards the back.
Finishing: Hem overlocked, turned up 2.5 cm and sewn by hand with blind stitches.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A fly-front zipper with a fly shield, slanted pockets with side pieces, and a folded waistband with finished corners.
Fabric Recommendations
Lightweight suiting fabrics from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric (pocket bags)
- Fusible interfacing (fly shield, waistband)
- Fusible stay tape, 1 cm wide (pocket openings)
- 1 zipper
- Trouser hook and bar
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance - 2.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.
- From main fabric:
- Back Half – 2 pieces
- Front Half – 2 pieces
- Side – 2 pieces
- Button Catch (fly shield) – 1 piece
- Waistband – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- From fusible interfacing:
- Button Catch – 1 piece
- Waistband – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Fuse a 1 cm wide fusible stay tape to the pocket opening.
- Mark and stitch the darts on the Back Halves. Press the darts towards the center. Overlock the center back edges. Stitch the back center seam and press open.
- Fold each Front Half wrong sides together, matching the side and inseam edges, and press the front crease.
- Place the Pocket Bag and the Front Half right sides together and stitch along the pocket opening. Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side and press. Topstitch along the pocket opening at a distance of 0.1 cm and press. Lay the Front Half onto the Side, matching the pocket opening lines. Stitch the Pocket Bag to the Side around the edges and overlock. Baste the Side to the Front Half along the top and side edges.
- On the left Front Half, cut off the cut-on fly facing, leaving a 1 cm seam allowance along the center front. Overlock the center front edges and the edge of the fly extension.
- Stitch the center front seam of the Front Halves, starting at the end of the fly facing. Press the cut-on fly facing of the right half to the wrong side. Align the zipper with the center edge of the left half and stitch. Stitch the free zipper tape to the fly facing of the right half. Topstitch the fly on the right half along the marked line. Fold the Button Catch in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and overlock the long edge and the short lower edge. Stitch the Button Catch into the zipper seam on the left half. Bar-tack the end of the fly on the right side of the trousers. On the wrong side, join the lower ends of the fly facing and the Button Catch.
- Stitch the side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Stitch the inseams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the waistband. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise with the wrong side in and press. Stitch the waistband to the top edge of the trousers, stitch the waistband corners. Trim allowances at the corners, turn the waistband right side out. Topstitch the overlocked edge into the waistband attachment seam.
- Overlock the hem allowance, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
- Sew the trouser hook and bar to the waistband.
- Match the side seam and inseam on each leg and press the crease on the Back Half.
