Two-Tone Zip Jacket
A women's hip-length, collarless, fully lined jacket in two fabrics, with contrast bands at the neckline, the hem and the sleeve ends. It has princess seams front and back, a separating zip at the centre front and two vertical zips set in welts on the lower front.
When To Wear
- To the office with trousers or a straight skirt.
- In spring and autumn over a blouse or a fine knit top.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.
Length: To the hip; a wide contrast band forms the lower part of the front and back.
Neckline: Round, collarless, edged with a contrast neckline band at front and back.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with an elbow seam; a contrast band is joined to both the upper and the lower sleeve at the hem. Shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Closure: Separating zip at the centre front, stitched between the front and the facing, teeth visible.
Pockets: Two faux pockets on the lower front band: double welts with a small zip stitched 0.5 cm from the teeth, no pocket bag.
Back: Centre back cut on the fold, side back panels and a contrast lower band.
Lining: Full lining cut from the main pieces minus the facings, bagged out through an opening in the right sleeve lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Matching contrast seams across princess panels, zipped welt openings, a two-piece sleeve with shoulder pads and sleeve heads, and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics from natural or blended fibres, in two colours or textures for the main and contrast parts.
Additional Supplies
- Contrast fabric
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (centre front, back neckline band, front facings, back neck facing, welts)
- 1 separating zip
- 2 small zips
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 1 piece on fold
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Welt – 4 pieces
- From contrast fabric:
- Lower back – 1 piece
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Back neckline trim – 1 piece
- Front neckline trim – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve trim – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve trim – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 1 piece
- From fusible interlining: center front, back neckline trim, front facing, back neckline facing, welts.
Attention: lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, subtracting the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the back neckline trim to the back. Press seam allowances towards the trim. Stitch the princess seams on the back. Press seam allowances towards the center. Stitch the lower back piece. Press seam allowance open.
- Stitch the front neckline trim to the front. Press seam allowances towards the trim. Stitch the princess seams on the front. Press seam allowances towards the center. Stitch the lower front piece. Press seam allowance open.
- Mark the position of the faux pocket. Press the welt lengthwise in half, wrong sides together. Stitch the welts to the front along the pocket marking lines. End stitching at the short marking lines. Cut open the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welts to the wrong side through the opening. Place the zipper under the welts. The edges of the welts should not cover the zipper teeth. Stitch the zipper to the welts with seams 0.5 cm from the teeth. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch the sleeve trim to the upper sleeve. Press seam allowances open. Stitch the sleeve trim to the lower sleeve. Press seam allowances open. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Press the bottom hem allowance inwards. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads, sew in sleeve heads.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Stitch the lining to the front facings and neckline facing.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, insert the zipper (teeth away from the center) and stitch along the front edge, bottom, and neckline. Stitch the lining to the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Secure the waist seam allowances together. Close the opening in the sleeve.
