Jacket with Patch Pockets

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interlining; lining fabric; 4 buttons; buckle.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment – 2.5 cm. Allowance for the top edge of the pocket – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Under collar - 1 piece
  • Upper collar – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Welt – 1 piece
  • Flap – 4 pieces
  • Pocket – 2 pieces
  • Pocket placket – 2 pieces
  • Belt loop – 1 piece
  • Belt – 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces

  ATTENTION! Front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.

• From fusible interlining:
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Upper collar - 1 piece
  • Welt – 1 piece
  • Flap – 2 pieces
  • Belt – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interlining to the designated pieces. On the front, along the lapel roll line, apply a 1 cm wide stay tape (from fusible interlining).
2. Stitch the princess seams on the back, press allowances open. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open.
3. Stitch the princess seams on the front, press allowances open.
4. Fold the welt piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the short sides. Trim allowances at the corner, turn the piece right side out, press. Place the welt on the front along the lower marking line (fold facing down) and stitch. Fold the welt up, press, topstitch the side to the front.
5. Stitch the pocket placket to the pocket along the side and bottom edges. Finish the allowance. Finish the lengthwise allowance of the placket. Fold the top allowance of the pocket and placket twice to the wrong side and topstitch. Press the side and bottom allowances of the pocket placket to the wrong side. Place the pockets on the front according to markings and topstitch. Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch. Trim the corner allowances of the flaps and turn right side out. Straighten the seams and press. Topstitch along the flap 0.2 cm from the edge. Stitch the flaps to the front, fold down and topstitch.
6. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams.
7. Fold the upper collar with the under collar and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, straighten and press.
8. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
9. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Topstitch the allowance of the front edge seam: in the button placket area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the front. The stitching is placed 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams.
10. Stitch the under collar to the jacket neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline of the back facing and front facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
11. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances open. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches.
12. Finish one long edge of the belt loop. Fold the belt loop in three layers and topstitch along the long sides. Cut the belt loop into 2 pieces. Topstitch the belt loops onto the jacket at the side seams.
13. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves.
14. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Stitch the lining to the bottom of the jacket. Turn the jacket right side out through the sleeve. Fold and secure pleats at the bottom of the sleeve. Stitch the cuff into a loop. Press allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise and press. Stitch the outer side to the sleeve. Direct the allowance towards the cuff. Fold the allowance of the inner side and stitch into the attachment seam.
15. Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening. Trim allowances at corners, turn right side out and press. Close the opening. Topstitch along the contour 0.5 cm from the edge. Secure the buckle to the end of the belt.
16. On the right front, finish buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons.