Pleated Blouse with Rouleau Loops and Flared Cuffs
A women's hip-length blouse with stitched-down pleats of different lengths on the front, a short buttoned placket closed with rouleau loops and a bias-bound round neckline. The below-elbow sleeves end in a band with a flared frill cuff.
When To Wear
- To the office with straight trousers or a pencil skirt.
- In spring and summer with jeans or a skirt.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, slightly loose blouse, front cut in one piece on the fold.
Length: Hip length.
Neckline: Round, finished with a 4 cm folded bias binding turned to the inside and topstitched.
Front: Pleats stitched from the right side from the neckline down to marked points; the pleats are of different lengths.
Closure: Placket set onto the front, with bias-cut rouleau loops on the right side and buttons on the left; ready-made loop tape can replace the loops.
Sleeves: Set-in, gathered at the cap, finished with a double sleeve band; a single-layer flared cuff with a narrow rolled edge is sewn into the band.
Back: Centre back seam and shaping darts.
Finishing: Hem overlocked, turned and topstitched (2 cm allowance).
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Pleats of different lengths, rouleau loops, a set-on placket with clipped corners, bias neckline binding and a cuff with a rolled edge.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse fabrics in natural or blended fibres with added elastane.
Additional Supplies
- 10 buttons
- Fusible interfacing (plackets)
- Ready-made loop tape (optional, instead of rouleau loops)
Cutter's Must
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 1 piece on fold
- Placket – 4 pieces
- Sleeve insert – 4 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the darts on the back pieces. Press the dart fullness towards the center. Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the allowance and press it to the left side.
- Stitch the pleats on the front from the right side, from the top to the perpendicular mark. (Pleats are of different lengths!)
- Cut a strip 2.5 cm wide at a 45-degree angle for the rouleau loops. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out, and straighten the rouleau. Cut into sections. Adjust loop length. Stitch the loops onto the right placket (folds facing away from the edge).
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the neckline length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding along the neckline edge, right sides together, extending the ends, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip the seams, and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch the upper corner and center edge of the right placket. Turn the placket right side out and press. On the left placket, stitch the upper corner and center edge, turn right side out and press. Overlock the raw edges of the plackets. Attach the plackets to the right side of the front along the long edge, stopping 1 cm from the bottom. Overlock allowances. Clip the front allowance at the corners, stopping 1 mm from the stitching. Tuck the ends of the plackets inwards, align them flush, and stitch, securing the bottom edge.
- Overlock the bottom and side edges of the cuff with a narrow rolled hem. Stitch the sleeve insert into a loop, press the allowance open. Stitch the bottom edge of the inserts, inserting the cuff. Turn the cuff down, the inserts up. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Stitch along the sleeve cap with loosened upper thread and gather. Attach the outer insert to the bottom of the sleeve. Press the allowance of the inner insert inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches, press allowances and overlock.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Sew buttons onto the left front placket. Tip: instead of self-made rouleau loops, you can use pre-made loop tape.
