Blouse with a Center Front Pleat

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: soft blouse fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; 4 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 2 cm, other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 1 piece on fold
  • Right front - 1 piece
  • Left front - 1 piece
  • Sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand —2 pieces
  • Collar —2 pieces
  • Right facing - 1 piece
  • Left facing - 1 piece
  • Back facing - 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar stand - 1 piece
  • Collar —1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Right facing - 1 piece
  • Left facing - 1 piece
  • Back facing - 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the darts on the front, press the fullness upwards.
3. Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
4. Place collar pieces right sides together, stitch along the ends and outer edge. Trim allowances at corners, turn collar right side out, shape, and press. Place collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge, inserting the collar. Trim allowances, turn collar stand right side out and press. Attach collar to neckline.
5. Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings, press allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Stitch the bias edge of the right facing to the right front, press allowances open. Place facing and neckline right sides together (collar is positioned between the main piece and the facing) and stitch the neckline edge and the corner of the right front. Clip allowances at curves, turn facing to the wrong side. Shape the corner on the right front.
6. Stitch the center front seam, press allowances and serge. Create a pleat, secure it with a horizontal stitch at the base of the neckline.
7. Stitch the side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
8. Make a slit on the sleeve along the marked line. Cut a bias strip from the main fabric, 4 cm wide and length equal to twice the slit length +4 cm. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise and press. Press outer allowances towards the center. Finish the sleeve slit with the bias strip.
9. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and serge.
10. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Start stitching strictly at the marked line for attaching the cuff to the sleeve. Turn cuff right side out and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, creating a pleat on the sleeve. Fold under the inner side of the cuff and topstitch into the attachment seam.
11. Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
12. Make buttonholes and sew buttons on the cuffs. Make buttonholes at the ends of the collar, and sew buttons on the front neckline accordingly.