Fitted Puff Sleeve Button Front Dress
A women's midi dress with a square neckline, a full-length button placket and a fitted bodice with front princess seams. The skirt is gathered into the waist seam, the short sleeves are gathered at the cap and finished with cuffs, and two patch pockets sit on the skirt front.
When To Wear
- Warm days in spring and summer, with sandals or flat shoes.
- Over a thin turtleneck or with a cardigan in cooler weather.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted bodice joined at the waist to a gathered flared skirt.
Length: Midi, below the knee.
Neckline: Square, finished with interfaced facings topstitched to the bodice along their inner edge.
Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves gathered at the cap, finished with a folded cuff.
Front: Bodice cut in centre front and side front panels joined by princess seams; buttoned placket from neckline to hem with ten buttons.
Pockets: Patch pockets on the skirt front, with a 3 cm top allowance turned twice and topstitched.
Back: Upper back cut on the fold with darts; lower back cut on the fold and gathered into the waist seam. No centre back seam.
Finishing: Hem overlocked, turned to the wrong side and topstitched (2 cm allowance).
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Princess seams, square neckline facings with clipped corners, a sewn-on button placket, gathered sleeve caps and gathered skirt.
Fabric Recommendations
Dress fabrics in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (cuffs, plackets, neckline facings)
- 10 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Top edge of pocket allowance – 3.0 cm. Bottom edge of garment allowance – 2.0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Upper back – 1 piece on fold
- Lower back - 1 piece on fold
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Cutting:
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the upper back piece, press allowances towards the center. Along the upper edge of the lower back piece, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Attach the lower back piece to the upper back piece, press allowances upwards and overlock.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front, press allowances towards the center and overlock.
- Along the upper edge of the lower front piece, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Attach the lower front piece to the upper front piece, press allowances upwards and overlock.
- Press the top edge allowance of the pocket to the wrong side by 1 cm, then by another 2 cm and topstitch. Overlock the side and bottom edges of the pocket, press to the wrong side and topstitch according to markings on the lower front piece. Press.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch shoulder seams of neckline facings, press allowances open. Overlock the outer edge. Place facings with the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Trim allowances at corners. Turn facing to the wrong side, straighten and press. Topstitch the facing to the main piece along the inner edge.
- Fold the placket lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the upper corner. Turn the placket right side out, straighten, press. Attach the outer side of the placket to the front, press allowances towards the placket. Fold the allowance of the inner of the placket inwards and stitch into the attachment seam.
- Stitch along the sleeve cap with a loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches, press allowances and overlock.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Fold the cuff lengthwise in half, right side out, and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner cuff inwards and stitch into the attachment seam of the upper cuff.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the right front placket. Sew buttons on the left front placket.
