Denim Collared Cuffed Shirtdress
A women's long shirtdress in thin denim with a shirt collar on a stand, a buttoned half placket on the bodice, a gathered skirt front and short gathered sleeves with cuffs. Two patch pockets with a topstitched band sit on the skirt.
When To Wear
- Spring and summer days, with sandals or trainers.
- Over a thin knit top or with a light cardigan in early autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Bodice shaped with bust and waist darts on the front and back, joined at a waist seam to a flared skirt; the skirt front is gathered between marks.
Length: Long, below mid-calf.
Collar: Shirt collar on a separate stand, topstitched along the edge, with a buttonhole on the stand.
Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves gathered at the cap, finished with a folded cuff topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.
Front: Half placket on the bodice with four buttons, topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam; the right placket overlaps the left and is secured at the waist seam.
Closure: Concealed zipper in the centre back seam; five buttons in total including the collar stand.
Pockets: Patch pockets on the skirt, each with a folded upper band attached with two rows of stitching at 0.1 and 0.5 cm.
Back: Centre back seam and a waist seam; darts topstitched 0.1–0.2 cm from the seam.
Finishing: Hem finished with a folded band cut on the fold and topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Collar with stand, a sewn-on placket, a concealed zipper, gathered sleeve caps and a gathered skirt front.
Fabric Recommendations
Thin denim in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (collar, front plackets, cuffs, collar stand, pocket bands)
- 5 buttons
- Concealed zipper
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all allowances – 1.0 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back – 2 pieces
- Lower back - 2 pieces
- Upper front - 2 pieces
- Lower front – 1 piece with fold
- Front placket - 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- Lower placket - 1 piece with fold
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Upper pocket – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar - 1 piece
- Front placket – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Upper pocket – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the front and back pieces. Press waist dart depths towards the center, bust darts upwards. Topstitch along the darts 0.1 – 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Attach the lower back to the upper. Overlock the allowance and press upwards.
- Overlock the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the top to the zipper mark and from the second mark to the bottom. Press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Press the placket lengthwise in half, right side out. Attach the outer side of the placket to the upper front. Press the allowance towards the placket. Fold the allowance of the inner placket inwards and topstitch into the attaching seam. Topstitch along the placket 0.5 cm from the seam. Make buttonholes on the right front placket. Overlap the right front placket onto the left and secure at the bottom edge.
- Along the upper edge of the lower front, between the marks, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Attach the lower front to the upper. Overlock the allowance and press upwards.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Press the upper pocket lengthwise in half. Fold allowances inwards. Insert the pocket between the allowances and attach from the right side with two parallel stitches 0.1 and 0.5 cm from the edge. Overlock the side and bottom allowances of the pocket, fold inwards and topstitch onto the dress according to the markings.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Topstitch along the contour. Place collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch, inserting the collar. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked line for attaching the collar stand to the neckline. Trim allowances, turn right side out and press.
- Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline, fold the raw edge of the inner collar stand inwards and topstitch into the attaching seam.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Overlock the allowance and press towards the back. Along the sleeve cap, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the cuff into a loop. Fold the cuff lengthwise in half and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, press the allowance towards the cuff. Fold the raw inner edge inwards and topstitch into the attaching seam. Topstitch along the cuff 0.5 cm from the seam. Set the sleeve into the armhole. Overlock the allowance and press.
- Stitch the lower placket into a loop. Press the allowance open. Fold the lower placket lengthwise in half and press. Attach the outer edge to the lower of the dress. Fold the raw inner edge inwards and topstitch into the attaching seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Make a buttonhole on the collar stand. Sew on buttons according to the buttonholes.
