Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; 10 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Top edge of pocket allowance – 3.0 cm. Bottom edge of garment allowance – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 1 piece on fold
- Lower back part - 1 piece on fold
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! CUTTING:
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the upper back piece, press allowances towards the center. Along the upper edge of the lower back piece, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Attach the lower back piece to the upper back piece, press allowances upwards and overcast.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front, press allowances towards the center and overcast.
- Along the upper edge of the lower front piece, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Attach the lower front piece to the upper front piece, press allowances upwards and overcast.
- Press the top edge allowance of the pocket to the wrong side by 1 cm, then by another 2 cm and topstitch. Overcast the side and bottom edges of the pocket, press to the wrong side and topstitch according to markings on the lower front piece. Press.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch shoulder seams of neckline facings, press allowances open. Overcast the outer edge. Place facings with the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Trim allowances at corners. Turn facing to the wrong side, straighten and press. Topstitch the facing to the main piece along the inner edge.
- Fold the placket lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the upper corner. Turn the placket right side out, straighten, press. Attach the outer side of the placket to the front, press allowances towards the placket. Fold the allowance of the inner part of the placket inwards and stitch into the attachment seam.
- Stitch along the sleeve cap with a loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches, press allowances and overcast.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Fold the cuff lengthwise in half, right side out, and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner cuff inwards and stitch into the attachment seam of the upper cuff.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the right front placket. Sew buttons on the left front placket.
