Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: thin denim fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 5 buttons; concealed zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all allowances – 1.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Upper front part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 1 piece with fold
- Front placket - 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- Lower placket - 1 piece with fold
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Upper pocket part – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar - 1 piece
- Front placket – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Upper pocket part – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the front and back pieces. Press waist dart depths towards the center, bust darts upwards. Topstitch along the darts 0.1 – 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Attach the lower back part to the upper part. Overlock the allowance and press upwards.
- Overlock the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the top to the zipper mark and from the second mark to the bottom. Press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Press the placket lengthwise in half, right side out. Attach the outer side of the placket to the upper front part. Press the allowance towards the placket. Fold the allowance of the inner placket part inwards and topstitch into the attaching seam. Topstitch along the placket 0.5 cm from the seam. Make buttonholes on the right front placket. Overlap the right front placket onto the left and secure at the bottom edge.
- Along the upper edge of the lower front part, between the marks, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Attach the lower front part to the upper. Overlock the allowance and press upwards.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Press the upper pocket part lengthwise in half. Fold allowances inwards. Insert the pocket between the allowances and attach from the right side with two parallel stitches 0.1 and 0.5 cm from the edge. Overlock the side and bottom allowances of the pocket, fold inwards and topstitch onto the dress according to the markings.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Topstitch along the contour. Place collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch, inserting the collar. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked line for attaching the collar stand to the neckline. Trim allowances, turn right side out and press.
- Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline, fold the raw edge of the inner collar stand inwards and topstitch into the attaching seam.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Overlock the allowance and press towards the back. Along the sleeve cap, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the cuff into a loop. Fold the cuff lengthwise in half and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, press the allowance towards the cuff. Fold the raw inner edge inwards and topstitch into the attaching seam. Topstitch along the cuff 0.5 cm from the seam. Set the sleeve into the armhole. Overlock the allowance and press.
- Stitch the lower placket into a loop. Press the allowance open. Fold the lower placket lengthwise in half and press. Attach the outer edge to the lower part of the dress. Fold the raw inner edge inwards and topstitch into the attaching seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Make a buttonhole on the collar stand. Sew on buttons according to the buttonholes.
