Rounded Yoke Pleated Tunic

Name: Rounded Yoke Pleated Tunic
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2092
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2092

A women's tunic with a rounded front yoke inset and a partial button placket, a two-layer body with a pleated chiffon outer layer over a main-fabric underlayer, a back yoke, and set-in sleeves with button tabs for rolling them up. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: chiffon for the outer front and outer back.

Tech. Description

Rounded Yoke Pleated Tunic

When To Wear

In spring and summer over slim trousers, leggings or a narrow skirt.
For the office or daytime outings with the sleeves rolled up and buttoned on the tabs.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Loose tunic, with fullness from pleats below the front inset and the back yoke.

Length: Tunic length, with a curved hem that is longer at the centre front than at the sides.

Neckline: Round neckline bound with a self-made bias binding.

Front: A rounded yoke inset cut in two halves, each with a stitched placket; the right half laps over the left, with buttonholes on the right placket and buttons on the left. Two buttons are shown in the drawing.

Sleeves: Set-in sleeves with a buttoned tab stitched to the wrong side, holding the sleeve rolled up; shown at three-quarter length.

Back: A back yoke cut on the fold, with the pleated outer back and the inner back attached below it.

Finishing: Outer and inner layers are joined at the yokes and armholes; the side seams and hems of each layer are sewn separately, serged, turned under and topstitched.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Pleating chiffon and handling two layers as one, a lapped placket set into a rounded inset, buttonholes, sleeve tabs, bias-bound neckline.

Fabric Recommendations

Chiffon for the outer front and outer back. For the yoke, inset, plackets, sleeves, tabs and the inner layer: a lightweight blouse fabric with drape, such as viscose, crepe de chine or cotton voile.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (plackets)
Buttons for the placket and the sleeve tabs
Bias binding for the neckline, cut on the bias to the neckline length + 4 cm

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:
- Inner Back – 1 piece on fold
- Inner Front – 1 piece on fold
- Front Inset – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 1 piece on fold
- Placket – 4 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Sleeve Decorative Tab – 2 pieces
From chiffon:
- Outer Back – 1 piece on fold
- Outer Front – 1 piece on fold
From fusible interfacing:
- Placket – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the Placket pieces.
Lay the pleats on the Outer Back, turning them towards the center. Place the Outer Back on the Inner Back (wrong side of the outer on the right side of the inner) and secure along the upper edge. Stitch the Back Yoke to the back, press seam allowances towards the yoke and serge.
Place the Placket pieces right sides together in pairs and stitch the outer edge. Turn right side out and press. Make buttonholes on the right placket. Stitch the plackets to the Front Inset pieces, press seam allowances towards the inset and serge. Lap the right inset over the left and baste them together along the lower edge.
Lay the pleats on the Outer Front, turning them towards the center. Place the Outer Front on the Inner Front (wrong side of the outer on the right side of the inner) and secure along the upper edge. Stitch the Front Inset to the front, press seam allowances towards the front and serge.
Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge. Stitch side seams separately on the outer and inner parts, press seam allowances towards the back and serge. Baste the outer and inner layers together along the armholes and treat them as one piece from now on.
Cut a bias binding equal to the neckline length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Unfold it, press both edges towards the center fold. Bind the neckline edge.
Fold the Sleeve Decorative Tabs in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long and short edges. Turn right side out, trimming seam allowances at the corners, smooth and press. Serge the open short edge. Topstitch the tabs to the wrong side of the sleeves according to the markings.
Stitch sleeve seams, press towards the back and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and serge.
Serge the hems of the tunic (each layer) and sleeves, turn under and topstitch.
Sew buttons on the left placket. Make buttonholes on the tabs and sew buttons on the sleeves.