Wide Leg Jeans Style Trousers
Women's full-length wide-leg trousers in jeans style, with a zip fly, front patch pockets with curved bound openings, a back yoke and pointed back patch pockets. The waist is finished with a shaped faced band carrying belt loops instead of a separate waistband.
When To Wear
- Everyday wear with T-shirts, shirts and knitwear.
- Spring and autumn, with flat shoes or trainers.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Wide, straight legs from the hip to the hem.
Length: Full length, hem overlocked, turned up and topstitched.
Waist: Shaped band made of outer and inner facings (front right, front left and back), interfaced, stitched together along the top edge and understitched 0.2 cm from the seam. Belt loops are caught into the lower edge of the outer facing and topstitched at the top. Fastens with buttonholes on the right facing and buttons on the left.
Closure: Front zip fly with a cut-on fly facing, an interfaced fly shield, J-shaped topstitching on the right front and a bar tack at the end of the zip.
Pockets: Front patch pockets with a curved opening finished with bias binding; two back patch pockets with pointed lower edges, the top edge turned under and topstitched.
Back: Yoke dipping to a point at the centre back seam, seam allowances pressed up.
Legs: Side seams and inseams, pressed and overlocked.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A zip fly with a fly shield, a faced shaped waistband with corners turned out, bound pocket openings and accurately placed patch pockets.
Fabric Recommendations
Medium-weight woven fabric with some body: denim, cotton twill, gabardine, linen-cotton blends.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (waist facings, fly shield)
- Zip for the fly
- Buttons for the waistband
- Bias binding for the front pocket openings
Cutter's Must
From main fabric:
- Back half – 2 pieces
- Front half – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 2 pieces
- Back facing – 2 pieces
- Front facing right – 2 pieces
- Front facing left – 2 pieces
- Fly shield – 1 piece
- Back pocket – 2 pieces
- Front pocket – 2 pieces
- Belt loop – 1 piece
From fusible interfacing:
- Back facing – 1 piece
- Front facing right – 1 piece
- Front facing left – 1 piece
- Fly shield – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the side edges of the back and front facings. Press open the side seams of the facings.
- Attach the back yoke to the back half, press seam allowances upwards and overlock.
- Press the upper seam allowance of the back pocket to the wrong side, turn under and topstitch. Overlock the pocket edges, press seam allowances to the wrong side. Place the pocket onto the back half according to markings and topstitch.
- Stitch the center seam of the back half, press seam allowances and overlock.
- Fold the bias binding with the front pocket opening edge right sides together and stitch. Turn the binding to the wrong side, clip seam allowances and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam. Overlock the outer side of the pocket, press to the wrong side. Place the pocket onto the front half and topstitch according to markings.
- From the left front half, cut off the integrated fly facing, leaving a 1 cm seam allowance along the center seam. Overlock the front center edge and the fly facing edge.
- Stitch the center seam of the front halves, starting the stitch at the edge of the integrated fly facing. Press the integrated fly facing to the wrong side. Align the zipper with the center edge of the left half and stitch. Stitch the free tape of the zipper to the integrated fly facing of the right half. Topstitch along the marked line on the right pant half. Fold the fly shield in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and stitch the short bottom and long edges. Overlock the raw edges of the fly shield. Stitch the fly shield to the zipper attachment seam of the left half. Place a bar tack at the end of the zipper on the right side of the pants. On the wrong side, connect the lower ends of the integrated fly facing and the fly shield.
- Stitch, press, and overlock the side seams. Stitch, press, and overlock the inseams.
- Fold the facing pieces right sides together and stitch the upper edge. Turn the facings right side out and press. Topstitch the facing seam onto the inner facing 0.2 cm from the seam. Overlock the lower edge of the inner facings.
- Fold the belt loop lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Then turn out, straighten the seam, placing it on the fold, and press. Cut the belt loops to size, mark their placement. Stitch the belt loops to the lower edge of the outer facing.
- Stitch the facings to the upper edge of the pants, aligning the side seams. Stitch the corners of the facings. Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn out and press. Topstitch the overlock edge of the inner facing into the attachment seam. Topstitch the belt loops to the upper edge of the facings.
- Overlock the hem allowance, press to the wrong side and topstitch. On the right facing, make buttonholes, and on the left, sew on buttons.
