Boat Neck Empire Waist Jumpsuit

Boat Neck Empire Waist Jumpsuit

A full-length women's jumpsuit with a boat neckline, extended shoulders, a pleated bodice joined to wide-leg trousers at a raised waist seam, and a concealed zipper in the centre back. The bodice is doubled with the same fabric.

When To Wear

• Summer evenings, dinners and parties, with sandals or heeled shoes.
• Daytime events in warm weather, with flat shoes and a light jacket.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Soft bodice over trousers that widen from the hip to the hem.

Length: Full length.

Neckline: Wide boat neckline, faced by the inner bodice layer and topstitched onto it 0.2 cm from the seam.

Sleeves: No set-in sleeves; the shoulder extends over the top of the arm.

Front: One-piece bodice front with pleats folded along marked lines at the waist seam, pressed towards the centre.

Back: Two back bodice pieces with pleats like the front; centre back seam with a concealed zipper running from the neck into the trousers.

Waist: Raised seam under the bust joining bodice and trousers, pressed downwards.

Legs: Wide legs, darts on the front and back trouser halves, centre front and centre back seams.

Finishing: Overlocked seams; armholes faced in two stages by the inner layer; 2 cm turned-up hem.

Lining: Bodice lined with the main fabric; the lining is attached to the zipper tape and sewn to the waist seam allowance.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A self-lined bodice with neckline and armholes faced by the inner layer, pleats, trouser darts and a concealed zipper across the waist seam.

Fabric Recommendations

Thin, drapey fabrics of natural or blended fibres: crepe chiffon, koshibo.

Additional Supplies

• Concealed (invisible) zipper

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Back – 4 pieces
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Front Half – 2 pieces
4. Back Half – 2 pieces

Note: The upper section of the jumpsuit is constructed as a double-layer bodice. The inner layer is cut from the same fabric as the outer garment.

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric, print and lay out the paper patterns according to your fabric width (90–150 cm) to determine required yardage.

Remember to account for paired and symmetrical pieces.

When sewing, pay close attention to all notches — they must match precisely to ensure correct construction and fit.

Assembly Instructions

1. Pants Darts

Mark and stitch the darts on the Front Half and Back Half.

Press the darts toward the center.

2. Side and Inseams

Stitch, overlock, and press the side seams and inseams.

3. Center Seam

Stitch the center seam of the pants from the upper front edge to the back zipper notch.

Overlock and press the seam open.

4. Upper Section Pleats

Form and secure the pleats on the Front and Back according to the marked lines.

Press the pleat intake toward the center of the piece.

5. Upper Section Assembly

Stitch and overlock the side and shoulder seams of the upper section.

Clip the side seam near the marking.

Press the shoulder and side seams toward the Back.

6. Center Back

Overlock the center back edges separately.

7. Joining Upper and Lower Sections

Attach the upper section of the jumpsuit to the lower section.

Overlock the seam allowance and press downward.

Press the zipper allowance in the center seam.

8. Zipper

Place the zipper under the seam allowances so that the teeth are not visible and stitch in place.

9. Inner Layer

Assemble the inner layer pieces in the same way as the outer garment.

10. Neckline and Armholes

Place the inner layer and garment right sides together and stitch the neckline of the Front and Back.

Topstitch the seam allowance onto the inner layer at 0.2 cm from the seam.

Finish the armhole in two steps: first the upper edge of the armhole, then the lower edge of the armhole.

Turn the inner layer to the wrong side and press.

Overlock the lower edge of the inner layer.

Attach the center back seam allowances of the inner layer to the zipper tape.

Sew the lower edge to the seam allowance of the outer garment.

11. Hem

Press the hem allowance to the wrong side, turn under and topstitch.