Fit-and-Flare Dress with Horseshoe Neckline Band

Sleeveless Fit-and-Flare Dress with Round Neckline Band

A sleeveless women's dress with a princess-seam bodice, a wide band framing the scooped neckline, a separate waistband and a flared two-layer skirt. The bodice and waistband are lined; the dress closes with a concealed zipper at the centre back.

When To Wear

• Summer parties, weddings and evening events.
• Warm days with sandals or heeled shoes; with a light cardigan or jacket when it is cooler.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice and waist, skirt flaring out from the waistband.

Length: Knee length, with the underskirt showing slightly below the upper skirt on the drawing.

Neckline: Wide round neckline edged with a band: a double facing, interfaced, stitched along the neckline, turned out and attached to the right side of the bodice.

Sleeves: Sleeveless; the armholes are finished by stitching the lining to the main fabric.

Front: Centre front panel and two side front panels joined by princess seams from the armhole.

Back: Centre back and side back panels with princess seams; centre back seam with a concealed zipper.

Waist: Separate interfaced waistband, one piece at the front and two at the back.

Skirt: Two layers, an upper skirt over an underskirt, joined at the waist; each layer has its own centre back seam and its own hem.

Finishing: Overlocked seams; 2 cm turned-up hems on both skirt layers.

Lining: Bodice and waistband lined, cut from the same pattern pieces.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams, a bodice lined to the armholes, a neckline band set on the right side, and a concealed zipper through two skirt layers.

Fabric Recommendations

Thin dress fabrics with good drape, of natural or blended fibres, for example crepe chiffon.

Additional Supplies

• Lining fabric
• Concealed (invisible) zipper
• Fusible interfacing (waistband pieces and neckline facing)

Seam Allowances

If the pattern pieces have a double outline, seam allowances are included.
If the pattern pieces have a single outline, seam allowances are not included.

All seams — 1 cm

Hem allowance for skirt — 2 cm

Important Notes

If the pattern pieces have a double outline, seam allowances are included.

If the pattern pieces have a single outline, seam allowances are not included.

Seam Allowances:

• All seams: 1 cm
• Hem allowance for skirt: 2 cm

Attention

First, print the paper pattern and lay it out according to the fabric width (fabric width may vary from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine the required amount of fabric.
Do not forget to consider paired and symmetrical pieces.

When sewing, carefully match all notches (cut marks) — they must align correctly.

Cutter’s Must

From main fabric:

1. Center back – 2 pcs
2. Side back – 2 pcs
3. Side front – 2 pcs
4. Center front – 1 pc
5. Back waistband – 2 pcs
6. Front waistband – 1 pc
7. Upper skirt – 1 pc
8. Under skirt – 1 pc
9. Facing – 2 pcs

From lining fabric:

Lining pieces are cut using corresponding main patterns

1. Center back – 2 pcs
2. Side back – 2 pcs
3. Side front – 2 pcs
4. Center front – 1 pc
5. Back waistband – 2 pcs
6. Front waistband – 1 pc

From fusible interfacing:

Fusible interfacing pieces are cut using corresponding main patterns

1. Back waistband – 2 pcs
2. Front waistband – 1 pc
3. Facing – 1 pc

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the back waistband pieces, front waistband, and facing.
2. Place facings right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Press seam allowances, clip curves, turn to right side, understitch, and press.
3. Stitch princess seams of front and back pieces. Press seam allowances toward the center and overlock.
4. Attach back waistband to upper section, press seam allowances onto waistband and overlock. Repeat for front waistband.
5. Stitch side seams, press seam allowances toward the back and overlock.
6. Assemble lining in the same way. Place lining and main fabric right sides together and stitch armhole edges. Press seam allowances, clip curves, turn to right side and treat as one piece. Overlock center back seam.
7. Attach outer facing to the upper edge of front and back pieces. Clip seam allowances and press toward facing. Press inner raw edge of facing to wrong side.
8. Overlock center edges of upper and lower skirts. Place upper skirt over lower skirt and stitch together along upper and center edges up to the mark. Attach skirt to bodice, press seam allowances onto waistband and overlock.
9. Stitch center back seam of each skirt separately from the mark downward. Press seam open, preparing for zipper. Place invisible zipper under seam allowances so teeth are hidden and stitch. Turn inner facing allowance to wrong side and stitch into seam. Secure short edges to zipper tape.
10. Press hem allowance of both skirts to wrong side, fold inward again, and topstitch.