Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: thin, well-draping dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers, such as chiffon, crepe-chiffon. Also needed: lining fabric; concealed zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; allowance for the upper and lower edges of the drapery – 2 cm; allowances for the side and lower edges of the flounces – 0 cm; allowance for the dress hem – 3.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Front - 1 piece
- Drapery - 1 piece
- Small flounce - 2 pieces
- Medium flounce - 2 pieces
- Large flounce - 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Front - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
Attention: markings on the patterns are applied to the right side, and if cutting is done “face down,” then the drapery and flounce patterns are also placed on the fabric with the marking side down. When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Stitch the waist and bust darts on the back and front pieces. Press the waist darts towards the center of the piece, bust darts upwards.
- Overcast the center back seam allowance. Insert the concealed zipper from the upper edge to the notch. Fold back the lower part of the zipper and stitch the center back seam from the notch downwards. Press seam allowances open.
- Press the allowances of the lower and upper edges of the drapery to the wrong side, fold inwards and topstitch.
- Place the drapery on the dress with the wrong side facing the right side and secure it to the armhole edge and side edge up to the dart. Gather the raw edge of the drapery into small pleats to the length of the shoulder seam and secure it.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Process the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces. Place the lining with the main garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edges and armhole edges, press seam allowances, clip curves. Turn the dress right side out. Hand stitch the center back seam allowance of the lining to the zipper tape.
- Press the hem allowance of the dress and lining separately to the wrong side, fold inwards by 1 cm and topstitch.
- Overcast the side and lower edges of the flounces with a narrow rolled hem. Stitch the small flounces together, press allowances open and overcast. Stitch the medium flounces together and attach the large flounce to them so that it is directed towards the front and is underneath, press allowances open and overcast. Place the flounces on the shoulder seam: three flounces directed towards the front, two – towards the back. Topstitch the flounces onto the shoulder in the joining seam.
- Cut a strip from the main fabric 4 cm wide and equal to the length of the shoulder seam plus 3 cm. Stitch the strip along the long side, turn right side out, press. The stitching seam is located in the middle of the lower part. Cover the flounce topstitching seam with the strip, fold the raw ends under the dress and secure them there.
