Men's Button-Up Shirt
A men's long-sleeved shirt with a point collar on a stand, two patch chest pockets with pointed bottoms and a topstitched front placket. Back yoke with a pleat below it and long back darts; tower sleeve plackets and two-button cuffs.
When To Wear
- With chinos or jeans for everyday and casual office wear.
- Open over a T-shirt in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by vertical darts on the back.
Length: Hip length, with a curved hem.
Collar: Point collar on a separate stand, topstitched along the outer edge; one button on the stand.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with tower plackets (pointed top, topstitched across), pleats at the hem and cuffs with two buttons.
Front: Separate placket bands turned to the right side and topstitched 0.2 cm from the fold and from the front edge; five buttons, buttonholes on the right front.
Pockets: Two patch pockets on the chest with pointed bottoms and a 2 cm double-turned top hem.
Back: One piece cut on the fold, with darts pressed towards the centre and a pleat at the centre below the one-piece yoke.
Finishing: Seams overlocked; hem turned and machine-stitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A collar on a stand, tower sleeve plackets, cuffs and accurate edge topstitching on the plackets and pockets.
Fabric Recommendations
Shirting fabric of natural or blended fibres with added elastane.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (upper collar, inner stand, cuffs, plackets)
- 10 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: for side and upper edges of sleeve placket — 0.5 cm, for lower edge – 1.5 cm, upper edge of pocket – 3 cm, other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece (on fold)
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Sleeve Placket – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the cuffs, the upper collar, the inner stand collar and the plackets.
- Stitch the darts on the Back. Press the darts towards the center. Fold and tack the pleats on the back. Stitch the Back Yoke to the back. Overlock seam allowance and press upwards.
- Place upper collar with lower collar right sides together. Stitch ends and outer edge of collar. Trim seams. Turn collar right side out, shape, and press. Topstitch along outer edge and ends of collar. Press the lower edge of the inner stand collar 1 cm to the wrong side and topstitch at 0.7 cm. Place the stand collar pieces right sides together, aligning the upper edges, insert the finished collar between them, match the notches and stitch, stitching the ends of the stand at the same time. Turn the stand right side out and press.
- Fold upper edge of pocket inwards by 1 cm, then by 2 cm, and topstitch. Press pocket allowances inwards. Place the pocket on the right side of the front and topstitch it in place according to the markings.
- Place the Placket right side to the wrong side of the front and stitch along the front edge. Fold placket to right side, turn under raw edge, and topstitch to front at 0.2 cm from fold. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the front edge.
- Stitch and overlock shoulder seams. Press seam allowance towards the back.
- Stitch the outer stand collar (with the collar) into the neckline and press the seam towards the stand. Topstitch the inner stand collar over the neckline seam.
- Sleeve placket treatment: Cut the sleeve along the marked line, clipping diagonally into the corner at the top of the cut. Fold section from cut to marked line, equal to 1.5 cm, inwards twice by 0.5 cm and topstitch. Fold the Sleeve Placket in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the pointed top up to the cross mark. Trim seam allowances close to stitching, clip allowance at end of stitching. Turn placket right side out, press, and topstitch along fold line from bottom to cross mark at 0.1 cm. Place placket with sleeve right sides together and stitch inner side along marked line. Clip sleeve at end of stitching across from cut to stitching line. Fold placket to right side, turn under raw edge, and stitch. Align placket with marked line on sleeve and topstitch the pointed top along its outline and across at the cross mark.
- Set sleeves into open armhole. Overlock seam, press.
- Stitch sleeve seams, simultaneously stitching side seam. Overlock seams and press towards the back. Form and secure pleats at bottom of sleeve according to markings.
- Fold cuff lengthwise in half and stitch short edges. Turn cuffs right side out and press. Attach inner side of cuff to sleeve. Fold lower edge of outer cuff inwards and topstitch into attachment seam.
- Overlock bottom edge of garment, press to wrong side, and topstitch.
- Work buttonholes on the cuffs and the stand collar and sew on the buttons. Work buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front.
