Men's Fitted Princess Seam Shirt
A men's fitted long-sleeved shirt shaped by princess seams from the armholes on the front and back and by a centre back seam. Point collar on a stand, a topstitched front placket, tower sleeve plackets and buttoned cuffs.
When To Wear
- With a suit or with trousers for the office.
- Tucked into trousers or worn loose over jeans for evening and casual wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted. Princess seams on the front and back, pressed towards the centre and topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam; centre back seam, also topstitched.
Length: Hip length, with a slightly curved hem.
Collar: Point collar on a separate stand, topstitched along the outer edge; one button on the stand.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with tower plackets (pointed top, topstitched across), pleats at the hem and cuffs with two buttons.
Front: Separate placket bands turned to the right side and topstitched 0.5 cm from the fold and from the front edge; five buttons, buttonholes on the right front.
Back: Two centre back panels and two side back panels, no yoke.
Finishing: Seams overlocked; shoulder seams topstitched 0.5 cm; hem turned and machine-stitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Fitting through princess seams, a collar on a stand, tower sleeve plackets and cuffs, with regular topstitching.
Fabric Recommendations
Shirting fabric of natural or blended fibres with added elastane.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (upper collar, inner stand, cuffs, plackets)
- 10 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Sleeve Placket – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the cuffs, the upper collar, the inner stand collar and the plackets.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front and back. Finish seam allowances and press towards the center. Topstitch along the princess seams 0.5 cm from the seams. Stitch the center back seam. Finish seam allowances and press to the left side. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Topstitch along the outer edge and ends of the collar. Press the lower edge of the inner stand collar 1 cm to the wrong side and topstitch at 0.7 cm. Place the stand collar pieces right sides together, aligning the upper edge, insert the finished collar between them, align the notches, and stitch, stitching the ends of the stand at the same time. Turn the stand right side out and press.
- Place the Placket right side to the wrong side of the front and stitch along the front edge. Fold the placket to the right side, turn under its raw edge and topstitch it onto the front 0.5 cm from the fold. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the front edge.
- Stitch and finish the shoulder seams. Press seam allowances towards the back. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the outer stand collar (with the collar) into the neckline and press the seam towards the stand. Topstitch the inner stand collar over the neckline seam.
- Sleeve placket: Cut the sleeve along the marked line, clipping diagonally into the corner at the top of the cut. Turn the 1.5 cm section between the cut and the marked line to the inside twice by 0.5 cm and topstitch. Fold the Sleeve Placket in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the pointed top up to the cross mark. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching, clip the allowance at the end of the stitching. Turn the placket right side out, press, and edgestitch 0.1 cm along the fold from the bottom up to the cross mark. Place the placket on the sleeve right sides together and stitch its inner layer along the marked line. Clip the sleeve at the end of the stitching across from the cut to the attachment line. Fold the placket to the right side, turn under the open edge, and attach. Align the placket with the marked line on the sleeve and topstitch the pointed top along its outline and across at the cross mark.
- Set the sleeves into the open armhole. Finish the seam and press towards the front.
- Stitch the sleeve seams, simultaneously stitching the side seam. Finish the seams and press towards the back. Fold and tack the pleats at the sleeve hem according to the markings.
- On the outer cuff piece, press the lower (attaching) edge 1 cm to the wrong side and topstitch at 0.7 cm. Fold the cuff lengthwise right sides together and stitch, aligning the upper edge. Turn the cuffs right side out and press. Attach the inner side of the cuff to the sleeve. Topstitch the outer side of the cuff into the attachment seam.
- Finish the hem of the garment, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
- On the cuffs and stand, make buttonholes and sew on buttons. On the right front, make buttonholes, on the left front - sew on buttons.
