Men's Straight Leg Trousers with Knee Patches

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. FACING - 1 QTY
2. Pocket - 2 QTY
3. Welt - 2 QTY
4. Pocket FACING – 2 QTY
5. Upper part of front half - 2 QTY
6. Middle part of front half - 2 QTY
7. Lower part of front half - 2 QTY
8. Back half - 2 QTY
9. Front FACING – 2 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACINGS, FACING, welts.

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce FACINGS, FACING, and welts with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. (Heat-adhesive interfacings are pressed onto the wrong side of the detail with a strongly heated iron).
2. Finish welts on pocket details. On the wrong side of the pocket detail, press a 4 cm wide strip of interfacing over the pocket marking. Press the pocket welt in half lengthwise, right side out.
3. Pin the bottom FACING to the right side along the marked pocket opening line, with the fold away from the marked line, and the top FACING with the raw edge towards the marking. Stitch 1 cm from the line.
4. Cut the pocket lengthwise between the stitches, diagonally towards the ends of the stitches. Be careful not to damage the FACINGS and welts! Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the trousers.
5. Turn the welt and FACING to the wrong side to form a neat frame, and baste. From the right side of the trousers, stitch precisely into the seam of the welt attachment.
6. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the cut to the wrong side and topstitch them onto the welt precisely from the ends of one stitch to the ends of the other.
7. Place the pocket details on the upper parts of the front halves and topstitch.
8. Stitch the front half details together. Press the seams towards the middle part and topstitch.
9. Stitch the front center seam up to the ZIPPER. Press the one-piece ZIPPER FACING to the wrong side: on the left - along the center front line, on the right - stopping 1 cm before the center front line.
10. Pin the ZIPPER, turned sideways, to the right raw edge of the opening, place the FACING, folded in half wrong side in, on top, aligning the raw edges, and stitch all layers. Straighten the underlap and stitch a securing line along the edge of the ZIPPER.
11. Pin the opening, aligning the center front lines. Stitch the free tape of the ZIPPER to the FACING of the left side of the opening, without catching the fabric of the front trouser half.
12. Overcast the SEAM ALLOWANCES and from the wrong side, stitch a securing zigzag stitch along the bottom raw edges of the underlaps. Topstitch the left front trouser half along the opening according to the marking, catching the FACING.
13. Fold the front FACINGS with the upper raw edges of the front halves right sides together and stitch along the upper raw edge.
14. Stitch the inseam and side seams, stitching the FACINGS. Stitch the center seam of the front and back halves.
15. Turn the FACINGS to the wrong side, baste, and press. Topstitch the casings for the elastic TRIM STRIP according to the marking.
16. Insert the elastic TRIM STRIP and secure it according to the marking.
17. Press the hem of the trousers inwards, turn under the raw edges, and topstitch.
18. Work a buttonhole on the left side of the opening allowance. Sew a button on the right.