CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- 2. SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
- 3. Flap - 4 QTY
- 4. Pocket Bag – 2 QTY
- 5. Pocket FACING – 4 QTY
- 6. Welt - 1 QTY
- 7. Upper Pocket Bag – 1 QTY
- 8. Underpart of Front Edge – 2 QTY
- 9. Front Edge Insert – 2 QTY
- 10. FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- 11. COLLAR - 1 QTY
- 12. Upper SLEEVE - 2 QTY
- 13. Under SLEEVE - 2 QTY
- From LINING fabric:
- 1. BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- 2. SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
- 4. Pocket Bag – 2 QTY
- 7. Upper Pocket Bag – 1 QTY
- 12. Upper SLEEVE - 2 QTY
- 13. Under SLEEVE - 2 QTY
- 14. FRONT PANEL LINING – 2 QTY
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FRONT PANEL, flap, FACING, welt, COLLAR, front edge insert, underpart of front edge.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce COLLAR, FRONT PANELs, welt, FACINGs, inserts, underparts of front edge, and flaps with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. (Heat-activated interfacings are ironed onto the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
- Stitch darts on the FRONT PANEL.
- On the left FRONT PANEL, create a welt pocket. Reinforce the pocket opening on the wrong side with a 4 cm wide strip of interfacing. Press the welt in half lengthwise, right side out. Place the welt and one pocket bag on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, aligning raw edges, and stitch. Cut the FRONT PANEL between the stitching lines, at the ends of the opening, slash diagonally to the ends of the stitching, being careful not to damage the pocket pieces. Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side, press the welt towards the pocket opening. Stitch the other pocket bag to the seam allowances of the welt from the wrong side. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and topstitch them to the pocket bags precisely from the ends of the upper to the ends of the lower stitching. Trim and stitch the pocket bags.
- Stitch the SIDE PANEL to the FRONT PANEL.
- Place the pocket flap pieces right sides together, stitch along the outer edges, turn right side out, and press. Press the FACINGs in half lengthwise, right side out. Place the flap on the upper FACING, right side in. Place the FACINGs on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, aligning raw edges according to markings, and stitch. Cut the FRONT PANEL between the stitching lines, at the ends of the opening, slash diagonally to the ends of the stitching, being careful not to damage the pocket pieces. Turn the FACINGs to the wrong side and form a neat frame. Stitch the pocket bags to the seam allowances of the FACINGs from the wrong side. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and topstitch them to the pocket bags precisely from the ends of the upper to the ends of the lower stitching. Trim and stitch the pocket bags.
- Stitch the center back seam.
- Stitch the back princess seams up to the vent, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL. Fold the left vent allowance to the right side of the garment, stitch along the hemline, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch the left side of the vent. Fold the hem allowance of the right vent part to the right side of the garment, stitch along the edge of the vent allowance, turn right side out, and press. Fold the vent onto the SIDE PANEL and stitch a diagonal securing stitch at the top of the vent. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side.
- Stitch the shoulder seams.
- Stitch the upper and under SLEEVE parts.
- Set the SLEEVES into the armholes.
- Press hem allowances to the wrong side.
- Attach shoulder pads.
- Place the underparts of the front edge right sides together and stitch along the outer and lower edges. Turn right side out and press.
- Stitch together the underparts of the front edge, front edge inserts, and COLLAR.
- Stitch together the LINING pieces. Place the LINING with the jacket wrong sides together, baste along the raw edges, fold the hem allowances of the jacket and SLEEVES and stitch to the main garment. Insert the raw edge of the front edge and neckline between the stitched front edge and COLLAR pieces and stitch.
- On the left FRONT PANEL, make buttonholes.
- On the right FRONT PANEL and SLEEVES, sew on buttons.
