Men’s Zip-Front Jacket with Shirt Collar – One Pattern, Three Fabrics

Men’s Zip-Front Jacket with Shirt Collar – One Pattern, Three Fabrics

A men's hip-length jacket with a separating zip at the centre front, a shirt collar, front and back yokes and vertical zip pockets set into the front panel seams. Elastic at the sides of the hem, buttoned cuffs, full lining.

When To Wear

• In faux leather, in spring and autumn over a shirt or a knit.
• In faux fur or coating fabric, in the cold months with jeans or wool trousers.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight body, drawn in by elastic at the sides of the hem; flat at the centre front and back.

Length: Hip length.

Collar: Shirt-style collar without a stand: the upper collar is cut in one piece, the under collar in two halves with a centre back seam.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with an opening at the hem and a cuff closed with one button.

Front: Long separating zip at the centre front, set between the fronts and the facings. Each front is made of a yoke, a middle front panel and a side front panel.

Pockets: Vertical zip pockets in the seam between the middle and side front panels, with lining pocket bags.

Back: Back yoke and lower back, both with a centre back seam.

Waist: Cut-on facings at the hem of the back and side fronts form casings for elastic tape.

Finishing: Yoke, panel, centre back, under collar and sleeve seams pressed open and topstitched on both sides; cuffs topstitched all around; fusible interfacing on the facings, upper collar and cuffs.

Lining: Full lining, bagged and turned through an opening in a sleeve lining seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A separating zip set between the front and the facing, zip pockets in panel seams, elastic casings, cuffs and a bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Faux leather, faux fur or wool coating fabrics (drap).

Additional Supplies

• Lining fabric
• Fusible interfacing
• 1 long separating zip
• 2 short zips for the pockets
• Elastic tape for the hem casings
• 2 buttons

One Pattern, Three Jackets

• Faux leather: the timeless leather jacket. The yokes, panel seams and topstitching stand out clearly, and the zip pockets give it a sharp, modern finish.
• Faux fur: a cosy winter jacket in short-pile faux fur (faux mink or teddy, 5–10 mm pile). The short pile keeps every seam and pocket readable.
• Wool coating: a smart, tailored version in melton or drap coating, perfect over a knit or a shirt for town and office.

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Lower Collar – 2 pieces
2. Upper Collar – 1 piece
3. Back Yoke – 2 pieces
4. Lower Back – 2 pieces
5. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
6. Middle Front – 2 pieces
7. Side Front – 2 pieces
8. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
9. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
11. Cuff – 2 pieces

From Lining Fabric:

For drafting lining patterns use the following patterns:

1. Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
2. Upper Sleeve – use main fabric pattern, cut 2
3. Lower Sleeve – use main fabric pattern, cut 2
4. Back – 2 pieces
5. Front – 2 pieces

From Fusible Interfacing:

All interfacing pieces are cut using the corresponding main pattern pieces.

• Center Front Facing - cut 2
• Upper Collar - cut 1
• Cuff - cut 2

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

• Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
• Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
• For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

Preparation

• Apply fusible interfacing to Center Front Facings, Upper Collar and Cuffs.
• Transfer all markings to fabric: notches, pocket openings, casing fold lines, sleeve pleats and buttonholes.
• Staystitch neckline and armholes to prevent stretching.

Back & Front Assembly (Yokes, Panels, and Pockets)

Back

• Stitch the Back Yoke pieces to the Lower Back pieces.
• Topstitch the seams.
• Attach the assembled Yoke to the Back and topstitch the seam.

Front & Pockets

• Stitch the Front shaping seams (Middle Front to Side Front), leaving the pocket opening unsewn.
• Topstitch the seam allowances.
• Position the zipper behind the pocket opening and stitch it in place.
• From the wrong side, place the pocket bags right sides to the right sides of the pocket opening seam allowances and stitch exactly along the marked side seam lines.
• Press pocket bags toward the center and stitch them together.

Front Yoke & Shoulders

• Attach the Front Yoke to the Front; topstitch the seam.
• Stitch the shoulder seams.

Collar, Facings & Zipper Assembly

• Stitch the Lower Collar pieces together.
• Topstitch the seams.
• Set the Lower Collar into the garment neckline.
• Stitch the Upper Collar to the Center Front Facings.
• Baste the zipper to the front edges, placing it between the fronts and facings with right sides together.
• Place the Upper Collar with Facings onto the garment, right sides together, and stitch along the front edges and around the collar.
• Turn the garment right side out and press carefully.
• Secure the seam allowances of the Upper and Lower Collars together by hand along the inner edge.

Elastic Casing at Back and Side Front

• Press the integrated facings of the Back and Side Front pieces to the wrong side.
• Topstitch along the marked lines to form casings.
• Insert lengths of elastic tape into the casings.
• Secure the ends of the elastic.

Sleeves and Cuffs

• Stitch the upper sleeve and elbow sleeve seams up to the vent mark; press seam allowances open.
• Topstitch the elbow seam as indicated.

Lower Sleeve Pleats

• Fold the lower sleeve pleats along the marked lines.
• Press lightly and secure the pleats with basting stitches within the seam allowance.
• Fold the cuff pieces lengthwise, right sides together; stitch the short ends, turn right side out, and press.
• Place the cuffs onto the sleeve hems right sides together and stitch.
• Turn the cuffs out, press the seam allowance inward, and topstitch in the seam, continuing the topstitching around the entire cuff.
• Set sleeves into the armholes, matching notches.

Lining Assembly & Attachment

• Assemble the lining pieces in the same sequence as the outer garment, leaving an opening of approximately 20 cm in the elbow seam of one sleeve for turning.
• Insert the lining into the jacket right sides together, aligning the center back lines and shoulder seams.
• Stitch the lining to the outer garment along the front facings and neckline.
• Attach the lining to the jacket hem allowance and sleeve hem allowances.
• Turn the garment right side out through the opening left in the sleeve.
• Close the sleeve opening with a neat machine stitch.

Finishing

• Work buttonholes on the cuffs and sew on the buttons.
• Give a final press — ensuring sharp collar edges, flat facings, and crisp hem.