Men's Field Jacket

Field Jacket in Classic Utility Style with Angled Welt Pockets & Patch Pockets with Buttoned Flaps

A men's hip-length field jacket with a shirt-type collar on a stand, a two-way separating zip covered by a buttoned placket, slanted welt pockets and gusseted patch pockets with two-button flaps. Fully lined.

When To Wear

• As an outer jacket in spring and autumn, over a shirt or a jumper.
• With jeans, chinos or corduroy trousers for town and country wear.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight, relaxed fit.

Length: Hip length.

Collar: Pointed shirt-type collar with a separate stand; the stand seams are topstitched.

Closure: Two-way separating zip; its right half is sewn to the right centre front facing, its left half to the left closure placket, which has a rounded lower end and buttons over the zip.

Pockets: Slanted single-welt pockets with welts topstitched 1 cm from the edge. Below them, patch pockets with a folded side gusset, lined with cotton, topstitched 1.5 cm at the top and covered by a flap with two buttons.

Back: One piece cut on the fold, joined to a one-piece yoke that runs over the shoulders onto the fronts.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with a faced vent and a buttoned cuff topstitched 5 mm around its edges.

Finishing: Yoke, armhole and sleeve seams topstitched 1 cm, side seams 5 mm; fusible interfacing on the collar, stand, placket, front facings, welts, pockets, flaps and all hem allowances.

Lining: Full body and sleeve lining cut from the shell pieces, with a horizontal ease pleat at the hem.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate to Advanced. Gusseted lined patch pockets, single-welt pockets, a collar on a stand, faced sleeve vents with cuffs, a separating zip set between shell and facing, and a full lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Wool or wool-blend coating, or leather. The sample is made in brown wool with a fine check.

Additional Supplies

• Lining fabric in a matching colour
• Fusible interfacing, 1.5 m at 140 cm wide
• Cotton fabric for pocket bags and patch pocket linings, 45 cm at 140 cm wide
• Two-way separating zip, about 64 cm (length depends on the measurements)
• 8 buttons, 22 mm (6 for the front, 1 for each cuff)
• 4 buttons, 14 mm (pocket flaps)

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Back - 1 piece
2. Front 2 pieces
3. Yoke - 1 piece
4. Upper Sleeve - 2 pieces
5. Lower Sleeve - 2 pieces
6. Left Closure Placket - 2 pieces
7. Upper Collar – 1 piece
8. Lower Collar - 1 piece
9. Stand Collar – 2 pieces
10. Patch Pocket – 2 pieces
11. Patch Pocket Flap – 4 pieces
12. Pocket Side – 2 pieces
13. Pocket Welt (marked on pattern as “Pocket Off-Set Welt”) - 2 pieces
14. Right Center Front Facing - 2 pieces
15. Cuffs - 4 pieces
16. Sleeve Facing – 2 pieces

From Cotton Fabric:

1. Pocket Bag (for welt pocket) – 4 pieces
2. Patch Pocket Lining – 4 pieces

From Lining Fabric:

For drafting the lining patterns, use the following patterns with the following modifications:

1. Back lining: use Back pattern shortening it by 2 cm, cut 1.
2. Front lining: use Front pattern shortening it by 2 cm, cut 2 pieces.
3. Yoke: use Yoke pattern without any modifications, cut 1.
4. Upper Sleeve - use Upper Sleeve pattern shortening it by 3 cm, cut 2.
5. Lower Sleeve - use Lower Sleeve pattern shortening it by 3 cm, cut 2.

From Fusible Interfacing:

For drafting the fusible interfacing patterns, use the following patterns:

1. Hem allowances of Fronts, Back, and Sleeves (copy strips from the patterns)
2. Upper and Lower Collars, cut 1 each.
3. Stand Collar, cut 2.
4. Left Closure Placket, cut 1. If you like it to be stiff, then cut 2 and fuse it to both pieces.
5. Right Center Front Facing, cut 1. If you like it to be stiff, then cut 2 and fuse it to both pieces.
6. Half of Pocket Welt, cut 2.
7. Patch Pocket, cut 2.
8. Patch Pocket Flap, cut 2. If you like it to be stiff, then cut 4 and fuse it to all 4 pieces.

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

• Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
• Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
• For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

1. Preparation – Fuse Interfacing

From the wrong side, apply fusible interfacing to:

• Upper Collar and Lower Collar
• Both Stand Collars
• Patch Pockets
• Pocket Flaps
• Pocket Welts (half width)
• Right Center Front Facing
• Left Closure Placket
• Hem allowances of Fronts, Back, and Sleeves

Press with a hot iron and press cloth until fully bonded.

2. Patch Pockets (with a Side)

• Fold the Pocket Side of the pocket in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch 2–3 mm from folded edge.
• Attach one long edge of the Pocket Side to the side and bottom edges of the Pocket, right sides together (leave top hem extension free).
• Press the sewn Pocket Side inward; topstitch along the edge.
• Place both Patch Pocket Lining pieces right sides together; stitch sides and bottom.
• Attach the upper edge of one Patch Pocket Lining piece to the top of the pocket, right sides together. Turn to inside, press, and topstitch 1.5 cm from top edge.
• Fold the remaining lining allowance and pocket raw edges under.
• Place pocket onto Front using markings; baste, then topstitch around edges.

3. Pocket Flaps

• Place each Flap and its lower flap right sides together.
• Stitch around sides and lower edge; leave top edge open.
• Trim corners, turn right side out, press.
• Topstitch 1 cm around the edge.
• Position Flap face-up on Front above pocket opening; stitch along top edge.
• Trim seam to 5 mm, turn flap down, press.
• Topstitch 1 cm along fold to secure in place.

4. Welt Pocket (on Left and Right Fronts)

• Fold each welt lengthwise, right sides together.
• Stitch the short ends, trim corners, turn right side out, and press.
• Topstitch 1 cm along the folded edge, tapering diagonally into the corners (as per the original).

Pocket Construction

• Mark the welt pocket opening on both Fronts.
• Place the welt face down along the marked line.
• Place the first pocket bag (cotton fabric) over the welt, right sides together.
• Place the second pocket bag (cotton fabric) above the opening, facing down toward the welt.
• Stitch 5 mm from both sides of the opening marking through all layers.

Turning and Securing the Pocket

• Cut the opening between the stitching lines, clipping diagonally into corners.
• Turn both pocket bags to the inside.
• Zigzag the free fold of the welt to the upper pocket bag.
• Align both pocket bags and stitch around their edges to close.
• From the right side, secure welt ends to the garment with short diagonal stitches or bar tacks.

5. Yoke & Body Assembly

• Place Back and Yoke right sides together; stitch across shoulder area.
• Turn right side out; press seam upward toward Yoke. Topstitch 1 cm.
• Attach Yoke to both Fronts in same way.
• Sew side seams; press allowances toward Back and topstitch 0.5 cm.

6. Sleeves & Sleeve Placket

Upper Sleeve Assembly

• Sew upper and lower sleeve pieces together up to slit marking.
• Overlock seam allowances; press toward upper sleeve and topstitch 1 cm.
• Below slit marking — press seam allowances open.

Sleeve Placket (vent facing on sleeve):

• Place sleeve placket facing right side to wrong side of sleeve, aligning with marked slit. Stitch along marked line.
• Slash slit between stitches to vent.
• Fold raw edges under; finish opening edges with narrow hem (1–2 mm).
• Clip seam at base of slit, fold half of placket to right side; press and topstitch along slit.

Complete Sleeve

• Sew lower sleeve seam; press open.
• Insert sleeve into armhole, matching notches.
• Overlock seam allowances; press toward armhole and topstitch 1 cm.

7. Cuffs

• Place Cuff and its lower cuff right sides together; stitch side seams and one long edge. Turn, press.
• Align cuff to sleeve hem, right sides together; stitch.
• Turn cuff down, press seam allowance upward.
• Fold inner cuff edge inside and stitch along previous seam.
• Continue decorative topstitching 0.5 cm around cuff.

8. Left Closure Placket & Right Center Front Facing

• Stitch Left Closure Placket pieces right sides together (curved and lower edge); turn, press, topstitch 1 cm.
• Assemble Right Center Front Facing in same way.

9. Collar Construction

• Join each Stand Collar to its matching Collar (Upper & Lower), right sides together; press seams open and topstitch or understitch if desired.
• Attach Lower Collar with stand to shell neckline, right sides together; clip curves, press allowances downward.
• Attach Upper Collar with stand to lining neckline.

10. Zipper & Joining Shell + Lining

• Open zipper.
• Pin right half of zipper (teeth toward side seam) to Right Center Front Facing on right side; place facing over zipper and baste.
• Pin left half of zipper to Left Closure Placket in same way.
• With shell and lining right sides together, align edges; turn up shell hem onto lining.
• Stitch collar and entire front edge, catching zipper and facings in seam.
• Turn right side out, press.
• From wrong side, slipstitch lower edge of upper collar stand to neckline.

11. Lining Assembly

Construct Lining (same sequence as shell, without topstitching):

• Join Back lining to Yoke lining. Press seam allowances upward.
• Sew Front lining pieces to Back lining at shoulder seams. Press open.
• Sew side seams of lining. Press toward the back.
• Sew upper and lower sleeve lining pieces together along both sleeve seams (no vents, no plackets). Press allowances open.
• Set lining sleeves into the armholes of the lining body.
• Leave a 20 cm opening in one sleeve seam (for turning the garment right side out later).

12. Attach Lining to Shell

Join Lining to Left Closure Placket, Right Center Front Facing & Collar:

• With right sides together, insert the lining into the shell jacket.
• Align shoulder seams, neckline, and front edges.
• Stitch lining to:
  • Left Closure Placket
  • Right Center Front Facing / Zipper Placket edge
  • Stand Collar and neckline
• Do not stitch hem or sleeve ends yet.

13. Hem & Sleeve Lining Finish

Hem Area:

• Turn hem allowance of the shell to the inside and press.
• Fold lining hem allowance up (2 cm shorter than shell).
• Form a small ease/jump pleat at side seams.
• Slipstitch or machine-stitch lining to hem allowance.

Sleeve Lining Attachment with Functional Sleeve Placket & Cuff

• Insert lining sleeves into the coat sleeves after the cuffs and sleeve plackets are completed, wrong sides together.
• Match sleeve lining underarm seams to sleeve underarm seams.
• Smooth the lining inside so it hangs evenly, keeping it 2–3 cm shorter than the shell sleeve.

Attach lining at armhole:

• Fold lining seam allowance under 0.5–1 cm.
• Hand- or machine-stitch the lining to the sleeve’s armhole seam allowance only (this prevents lining from pulling out when worn).

Attach lining to cuff (only on closed section):

• Fold the raw edge of the sleeve lining hem under 1–1.5 cm.
• Tuck this fold between the outer (interfaced) cuff and inner cuff layers.
• Slipstitch (or fell-stitch) to the cuff seam allowance only across the closed part of the sleeve — stop 2–3 cm before the sleeve placket slit on both sides.
• Do not stitch across the vent opening.

Sleeve placket area — leave free:

• If the lining feels tight near the top of the sleeve placket, make a small diagonal snip in the lining seam allowance for ease.
• Fold raw edges under and press.
• Do not attach lining to the sleeve placket opening — it must hang free so the sleeve vent remains functional.

14. Turn & Finish

• Turn the jacket right side out through the opening left in the sleeve lining.
• Smooth lining inside the garment.
• Slipstitch the sleeve opening closed.
• Add small swing tacks between lining and shell at underarm and side seams if needed.