Casual Wool Jacket

Men’s Casual Wool Jacket with Central Button Closure, Yoke & Welt Pockets

A men's hip-length jacket with a straight cut, a four-button front, a turn-down collar and angled single-welt pockets. Back yoke, two-piece sleeves and a full lining.

When To Wear

• As a light outer layer in autumn and spring, over a shirt or a fine knit.
• With jeans, corduroy or wool trousers for casual and everyday wear.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight, with no darts or waist shaping.

Length: Hip length.

Collar: Turn-down collar without a stand, cut as an upper and an under collar, topstitched 5 mm from the edge.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with eased caps; the sleeve seam is topstitched 5 mm.

Front: Single-breasted, four buttons, buttonholes on the left front; separate front facings.

Pockets: Angled single-welt pockets on both fronts, welt 2 cm wide; pocket bags cut from lining fabric.

Back: One piece cut on the fold, with a straight yoke; the yoke seam and the shoulder seams are topstitched 5 mm.

Finishing: Fusible interfacing on the upper collar and welts; sleeve and jacket hems stitched close to the edge.

Lining: Full lining with an ease pleat at the centre back, 2 cm shorter than the jacket; attached by machine along the neckline, front edges and hem, and by hand at the sleeve hems.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Single-welt pockets, two-piece set-in sleeves and a lining sewn to the jacket along the neckline, fronts and hem.

Fabric Recommendations

Wool or wool-blend coating fabrics. Checks can be used if the pieces are laid out so the checks match at the seams.

Additional Supplies

• Lining fabric in a matching colour
• Fusible interfacing, 40 cm of 140 cm width
• 4 buttons, 25 mm

Cutter’s Must

From Main Fabric:

1. Back – 1 piece on fold
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Yoke – 1 piece
4. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Outer Collar (marked on pattern as "Upper Collar") – 1 piece on fold
7. Lower Collar – 1 piece on fold
8. Pocket Underlay – 2 pieces
9. Pocket Welt (marked on pattern as "Off-Set Welt") – 2 pieces
10. Center Front Facing – 2 pieces

From Lining Fabric:

Use main pattern pieces with the following modifications:

1. Back Lining – use Back Part pattern, add 2 cm pleat at center back, cut 2.
2. Front Lining – use Front Part excluding facing area; cut 2.
3. Upper Sleeve – use pattern, cut 2.
4. Lower Sleeve – use pattern, cut 2.
5. Pocket Bag (marked on pattern as "Pocket Bag") – 4 pieces (2 per pocket).
6. Shorten both jacket and sleeve linings by 2 cm at hem.

From Fusible Interfacing:

Apply to Outer Collar and Pocket Welts.

Important Information

Before cutting your fabric:

• Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
• Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
• For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.

Assembly Instructions

Preparation

Fuse Interfacing

Reinforce the Outer Collar and Pocket Welts with fusible interfacing. (Fusible interfacings are applied to the wrong side of the fabric using a well-heated iron and press cloth.)

Pocket Preparation

• Place the Pocket Underlay wrong side to the right side of the Inner Pocket Bag along the marking.
• Turn under the lower edge and stitch close to the fold.
• Baste the underlay and pocket bag together along the remaining open edges.

Single-Welt Pocket

• Pin the Welt and Lining Pocket Bag, both facing downward, to the marked pocket line on the right side of the Front.
• Pin the Pocket Bag with Underlay, facing upward, above the line.
• Stitch 5 mm from each side of the pocket marking through all layers.
• Slash the fabric between the stitching lines, clipping diagonally into corners.
• Turn the pocket bags to the wrong side and fold the Welt to form a 2 cm lip; press.
• Secure the free welt edge to the corresponding pocket bag with a zigzag stitch.
• Align both pocket bags, stitch around the contour, and press.
• From the wrong side, tack the ends of the welt to the small triangular seam allowances of the main fabric.

Yoke & Back Assembly

• Place the Yoke and Back Part right sides together and stitch along the seam.
• Turn right side out, press seam allowances upward toward the yoke, and topstitch 5 mm from the seam.

Shoulder Seams

Join the Fronts to the Yoke at shoulder seams; press allowances toward the yoke and topstitch 5 mm.

Sleeves

• Join Upper and Lower Sleeve sections; press allowances toward the upper sleeve and topstitch 5 mm from the seam.
• Set sleeves into the armholes, matching notches and easing sleeve caps as marked.

Collar

• Place Outer Collar and Lower Collar right sides together.
• Stitch along outer edges, trim corners, turn right side out, press, and topstitch 5 mm from the edge.
• Baste collar layers together along the neckline edge.
• Position collar (turned downward) on the garment’s neckline, matching notches with shoulder seams, and baste in place.

Lining

• Assemble the lining pieces in the same sequence as the main garment and attach Front Facings.
• With right sides together, place the lining and main garment together.
• Stitch along the neckline (catching the collar), front edges, and hem.
• Turn right side out through sleeve openings and press flat.

Sleeve Hems

• Turn sleeve hem allowances to the inside and stitch close to the edge.
• Turn the lining sleeve hem under and hand-stitch to the sleeve hem allowance invisibly.

Body Hem

Turn up jacket hem allowance to the inside and stitch close to the fold.

Finishing

Work buttonholes on the Left Front as marked.

Sew buttons to the Right Front.