Collarless Jacket with Shoulder Bow Detail
A women's fitted, lined jacket with a collarless round neckline, an off-centre three-button closure and a gathered bow of drapey contrast fabric that sits at the right neckline and is threaded through two bound slits in the right front.
When To Wear
- For the office over a dress or with a matching skirt or trousers.
- For daytime events, with the bow as the only trim.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted with front and back darts and a centre back seam.
Length: Short, ending at the top of the hip.
Neckline: Collarless round neck, finished with front facings and a back neck facing.
Front: Fronts with darts. The right front has two bound slits with folded facings meeting edge to edge. One end of the bow is caught in the front edge seam at the neckline; the gathered bow is then passed through the slits and tacked in place.
Closure: Single-breasted, offset to the left of centre, with three buttons; buttonholes on the right front.
Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams, eased into the armhole.
Back: Centre back seam and two darts.
Finishing: Bow edges finished with a narrow rolled hem; 3 cm hem allowance on the jacket and sleeves; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, bagged out through an opening in the right sleeve seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Bound slits, a gathered bow set into the front edge seam, a lined jacket bagged out through the sleeve, two-piece sleeves with sleeve heads.
Fabric Recommendations
Suiting fabrics in natural or blended fibres; a lightweight drapey fabric for the bow.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, slit facings)
- Fusible stay tape for the slit area
- 3 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Facing – 4 pieces
- From decorative fabric:
- Bow – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Attention: back and front pieces are cut by subtracting the width of the neckline facing and front facing, respectively.
From fusible interfacing: front facing, facings, back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the front facing, back neckline facing, and facings with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch darts on the back, press the fullness towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances to the left side.
- Mark and stitch darts on the front. Clip seam allowances and press towards the side seam.
- Mark the slit location on the right front with three lines. Fuse this area with a grain line strip. Fold the facings in half with the wrong side in and press. Mark a guide line on the facing parallel to the facing fold for attachment. Stitch the facings to the front. The ends of the stitches should finish at the parallel lines of the slit marking. Check the correctness of facing attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the slit. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the ends. Turn the facings to the wrong side through the opening, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the facings so that the pressed folds of the facings meet flush. Secure the ends of the slit from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Press.
- Overlock the long edges and one short edge of the bow with a narrow rolled hem. Stitch along the raw edge with loosely tensioned stitches and gather.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the edge and the neckline area of the front, stopping 2-3 cm from the neckline edge, inserting the bow on the right front. Stitching is done from the front side. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim seams at corners. Turn the edges to the right side, straighten seams, press.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Stitch the back and front neckline. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten seams and press.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing them in the upper of the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing.
- Stitch the lining to the bottom of the jacket and the sleeve. Turn the jacket through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
- Pass the bow through the slits, arrange it nicely, and attach it to the jacket.
