Mock Layer Tunic Dress

Name: Mock Layer Tunic Dress
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5978
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5978

A women's above-knee knit dress with built-in woven cotton shirt parts: a pintucked bib with a buttoned placket, a stand collar, and long cotton sleeves with buttoned cuffs under short knit oversleeves. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: knit with low or medium stretch in natural or blended fibres for the dress; cotton fabric in a matching tone for the bib, back insert, sleeves, cuffs and stand.

Tech. Description

Mock Layer Tunic Dress

When To Wear

For the office and daytime in autumn, winter and spring, with tights and boots or flat shoes.
As a one-piece alternative to a shirt worn under a knit dress.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight, slightly fitted dress for low- to medium-stretch knit.

Length: Above the knee.

Front: The front is joined to a knit yoke by a seam under the bust. A cotton bib insert with vertical pintucks pressed towards the armholes is set into the yoke.

Closure: A cut-on placket on the bib, three buttons; buttonholes on the right insert, which overlaps the left one and is secured at the lower edge.

Collar: Two-piece cotton stand with rounded front ends.

Sleeves: Two layers set in as one: a long cotton sleeve with a bound placket opening, pleats at the wrist and a buttoned cuff, under a short knit oversleeve with a topstitched hem.

Back: Centre back seam and a cotton back yoke insert at the neckline.

Finishing: Knit seams stitched with an elastic or narrow zigzag stitch or on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker; hem topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine. Sleeve openings bound with a bias strip.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Combining knit and woven fabric, pintucks, a cut-on button placket, a two-piece stand collar, bound sleeve openings and cuffs with pleats.

Fabric Recommendations

Knit with low or medium stretch in natural or blended fibres for the dress; cotton fabric in a matching tone for the bib, back insert, sleeves, cuffs and stand.

Additional Supplies

5 buttons (3 for the bib placket, 1 for each cuff)

Cutter's Must

From knit fabric:

Back – 2 pieces
Front yoke – 1 piece
Front – 1 piece
Knit sleeve – 2 pieces

From cotton fabric:

Back insert – 1 piece
Front insert – 2 pieces
Sleeve – 2 pieces
Cuff – 2 pieces
Collar stand – 2 pieces

Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread serger.

Sewing Instructions

Stitch the center back seam of the back. Press seam allowances to the left and serge. Attach the insert to the back, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
Stitch the pintucks on the front insert, press them towards the armhole. Press the integrated placket to the wrong side, fold the allowance 1 cm inwards and topstitch. Serge buttonholes on the right insert. Place the right insert over the left and secure along the bottom edge. Attach the insert to the front yoke, press seam allowances downwards and serge. Attach the yoke to the front, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the back and front. Press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge, starting and ending the stitch precisely at the collar stand attachment line. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn the collar stand to the right side, and press.
Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline, fold under the raw edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam.
Serge the bottom edge of the knit sleeve. Fold to the wrong side, press, and topstitch. Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances and serge.
Cut a bias binding for the sleeve slit, 18*3 cm in cut. Mark the fastener line on the fabric sleeve, cut the sleeve along the line. Lay the sleeve flat along the cut line and finish the slit with a binding seam with a closed edge. Binding width 0.5 – 0.7 cm. Seam width along the slit length 0.5 – 0.7 cm, decreasing to 0.2 cm at the top of the slit.
Stitch and serge the edges of the fabric sleeves. Insert the sleeve into the knit sleeve, secure at the cap and treat as one piece thereafter. Attach sleeves into armholes, aligning notches.
Fold cuffs in half and stitch the short sides. Turn cuffs out and press. Create pleats on the sleeve along the marked lines. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve. Fold under the inner side of the cuff and topstitch into the attachment seam. Serge buttonholes on the cuffs and sew on buttons.
Serge the bottom edge of the garment. Fold to the wrong side, press, and topstitch.
Sew buttons on the left insert.