Sheath Dress with Scarf Collar

Name: Sheath Dress with Scarf Collar
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5979
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5979

A knee-length women's sheath dress for low- to medium-stretch knit fabric, with front princess seams, a horizontal seam at hip level and elbow-length sleeves. A chiffon scarf collar is set into the neckline, its free tail draped over the front and fixed with a brooch. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: low- to medium-stretch knit fabric of natural or blended fibres; chiffon for the collar.

Tech. Description

Sheath Dress with Scarf Collar

When To Wear

At the office in spring and autumn, with court shoes.
Daytime celebrations and dinners, where the chiffon scarf replaces jewellery at the neck.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted sheath, shaped by princess seams on the upper front.

Length: Knee length.

Collar: One chiffon piece folded in half lengthwise and gathered to half its width along the short raw edge. From the lowest point of the front neckline to the left shoulder only one layer is set in, leaving the hemmed tail free; from the left shoulder round the back and the right front both layers are stitched in. The tail edge is finished with a narrow double-turned hem. The collar is draped and pinned with a brooch.

Front: Centre front and two side fronts joined by princess seams, stitched to a one-piece lower front along a hip-level seam clipped at the corner.

Sleeves: Elbow length, set-in, one-piece.

Back: Upper and lower back joined at hip level, with a centre back seam; no zip.

Finishing: Seams sewn with a stretch or narrow zigzag stitch or on an overlocker; hems topstitched with a twin needle or coverstitch.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Combining knit fabric with chiffon, a narrow rolled hem on chiffon and a gathered collar set in partly as one layer and partly as two.

Fabric Recommendations

Low- to medium-stretch knit fabric of natural or blended fibres; chiffon for the collar.

Additional Supplies

Chiffon for the collar
Brooch
Twin needle or coverstitch machine for the hems

Cutter's Must

From knit fabric:
Upper Back – 2 pieces
Lower Back – 2 pieces
Side Front – 2 pieces
Center Front – 1 piece
Lower Front – 1 piece
Sleeve – 2 pieces
From chiffon:
Collar – 1 piece

Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.

Sewing Instructions

Stitch each Upper Back to the Lower Back. Serge the seam and press it upwards. Stitch the center back seam. Serge the seam and press it.
Stitch the princess seams joining the Side Front pieces to the Center Front. Serge the seams and press them towards the center. Stitch the assembled upper front to the Lower Front, clipping into the corner on the Lower Front. Serge the seam and press it upwards.
Stitch the shoulder seams of the back and front. Press the seam allowances open.
Clip the collar seam allowances near the 'o' marks. Finish the 'tail' of the collar with a narrow double-turned (rolled) hem. To do this, press the allowance to the wrong side by 1.5 cm, stitch 0.1-0.2 cm from the fold. Trim the allowance close to the stitching. Fold the allowance again and stitch along the previous line. Press the seam. Fold the collar in half lengthwise, right side out. Along the short unhemmed side, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather, reducing the collar width by half. Attach the collar to the neckline, starting the stitching at the lowest point of the front neckline and continuing to the left shoulder seam. In this section, attach the collar only on one side, leaving the second finished side untouched. At the left shoulder seam, secure both sides of the collar together and then attach both layers of the collar together to the back neckline and the right side of the front neckline. Serge the seam and press it towards the armhole. Turn the dress inside out. Secure the seam allowances of the gathered collar side and the seam allowances of the left front neckline together. Stitch the seam allowances.
Stitch the side seams of the back and front. Press the seam allowances towards the back and serge.
Stitch the sleeve seams. Press and serge the seam allowances.
Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Press and serge the seam allowances.
Serge the hem edges of the dress and sleeves. Fold to the wrong side, press, and topstitch.
Drape the collar and secure it with a brooch.