3/4 Sleeve Dress Stand Collar Pleated Hem

Name: 3/4 Sleeve Dress Stand Collar Pleated Hem
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5944
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5944

A women's knee-length paneled dress with a high cut-on stand at the neck that opens at the front into a square neckline, a centre front and centre back panel running to the hem, and a pleated band at the hem set between them. Three-quarter sleeves, concealed zip in the centre back seam. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

3/4 Sleeve Dress Stand Collar Pleated Hem

When To Wear

At the office and for business meetings in autumn and spring.
For daytime events, with court shoes or ankle boots.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted through the body by curved panel seams on the front and back, with a pleated band adding width at the hem.

Length: Knee length.

Collar: Stand cut in one with the body, rising around the back and sides of the neck and framing a square neckline at the front. The whole neck edge is finished with interfaced facings; the centre front has a cut-on interfaced facing at its upper edge.

Front: Centre front panel cut in one piece from the neckline to the hem, middle fronts and side fronts.

Sleeves: Set-in, three-quarter length, one-piece with an underarm seam; 3 cm hem.

Back: Centre back cut in two halves with a centre back seam, middle backs and side backs.

Closure: Concealed zip in the centre back seam, between two marks below the top of the stand.

Skirt: Two pleated inserts, hemmed before attaching, sewn to the lower edge of the middle and side panels. The centre front and centre back panels continue over the band to the hem, their hem allowances wrapped around the edges of the middle panels.

Finishing: Panel seams pressed towards the middle panels or the centre; facings tacked to the seams; hems blind-stitched.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. A cut-on stand finished with shaped facings joined to a cut-on centre front facing, pleats folded by marks, panel seams that wrap the hem corners, and a zip set between marks.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Concealed zip
Fusible interfacing (front and back facings, centre front cut-on facing)

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:
Center Back – 2 pieces
Middle Back – 2 pieces
Side Back – 2 pieces
Side Front – 2 pieces
Middle Front – 2 pieces
Center Front – 1 piece
Sleeve – 2 pieces
Insert – 2 pieces
Back Facing 1 – 2 pieces
Back Facing 2 – 2 pieces
Front Facing – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
Back Facing 1 – 2 pieces
Back Facing 2 – 2 pieces
Front Facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the facings, and also to the grown-on facing allowance at the upper edge of the Center Front.
Stitch the Side Back to the Middle Back, press the seam allowances towards the middle panel and overlock. Stitch the Side Front to the Middle Front, press the seam allowances towards the middle panel and overlock. Stitch the side seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
Overlock the lower edge of each Insert, press it to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches. Fold the pleats along the markings. Stitch the Inserts to the dress, press the seam allowances upwards and overlock.
Overlock the center back edges. Stitch the center back seam from the upper edge to the upper mark and from the lower mark to the hem; press the seam allowances open. Insert the zipper into the opening. Overlock the lower edge. Also overlock the lower edge of the Center Front.
Stitch the Center Back to the Middle Back, folding the hem allowance of the Center Back to the right side and wrapping it around the middle panel; press the seam allowances towards the center and overlock. Turn out and straighten the lower corner. Stitch the Center Front to the Middle Fronts from the mark at the upper edge downwards, folding the hem allowance of the Center Front to the right side and wrapping it around the middle panel. Clip the seam allowances at the upper mark, press them towards the center and overlock. Turn out and straighten the lower corner.
Stitch Back Facing 1 and Back Facing 2 together, press the seam allowances open. Stitch the center back seam of the back facing, press open. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back and front facings, press open.
Place the facing on the dress right sides together and stitch the back and front neckline from mark to mark; clip the seam allowances at the curves. Stitch the grown-on facing of the Center Front to the lower section of the Front Facing and press the seam allowances open in this section. Overlock the outer edge of the facings all around. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten and press. Tack the facing to the seams with a few stitches.
Stitch the sleeve seam, press the seam allowances towards the back of the sleeve and overlock. Set the Sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches; press the seam allowances and overlock.
Overlock the lower edge of the sleeves, press it to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches. Also hem the remaining unfinished sections of the dress hem.