Tailored Tie-Waist Dress

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. Upper BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
2. Lower BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
3. Upper FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
4. Lower FRONT PANEL – 1 QTY
5. COLLAR - 4 QTY
6. SLEEVE - 2 QTY
7. SLEEVE FACING – 2 QTY
8. Skirt GORE – 8 QTY
9. Lower BACK PANEL FACING – 1 QTY
10. Lower FRONT PANEL FACING – 1 QTY
11. Belt – 2 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
1. COLLAR - 2 QTY
2. SLEEVE FACING – 2 QTY
3. Lower BACK PANEL FACING – 1 QTY
4. Lower FRONT PANEL FACING – 1 QTY

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse the corresponding pieces with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
2. Stitch shoulder SEAM ALLOWANCES, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and serge.
3. Fold COLLAR pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge, starting and ending the seam exactly at the COLLAR attachment line to the FRONT PANEL neckline. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES at curves, trim corners, turn COLLAR right side out, and press.
4. Attach the outer COLLAR to the neckline, clip SEAM ALLOWANCES at the shoulder seam and at the center FRONT PANEL seam NOTCH, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the COLLAR on the BACK PANEL, and towards the FRONT PANEL on the FRONT PANEL.
5. Attach the lower BACK PANEL to the upper part. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES downwards and serge.
6. Serge the raw edges of the center BACK PANEL seam. Stitch the center BACK PANEL seam from the ZIPPER NOTCH downwards. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open, pressing the ZIPPER opening. Insert the ZIPPER from the upper COLLAR edge to the NOTCH.
7. Clip the lower edge SEAM ALLOWANCE of the inner COLLAR at the shoulder seam. On the BACK PANEL section, turn it inwards; on the FRONT PANEL, direct it towards the FRONT PANEL and topstitch into the seam attaching the outer COLLAR. Serge together the neckline SEAM ALLOWANCES of the FRONT PANEL and the inner COLLAR. Hand-stitch the center seam SEAM ALLOWANCE of the inner COLLAR to the ZIPPER tape.
8. On the upper FRONT PANEL, create and secure pleats. Serge the center edge SEAM ALLOWANCE, press it to the wrong side. Topstitch 0.5 cm along the COLLAR attachment seam to the FRONT PANEL neckline. Before reaching 0.7 cm from the end of the COLLAR, create a step and topstitch the center front seam SEAM ALLOWANCE 1 cm from the fold. Overlap the right FRONT PANEL over the left and secure at the lower edge.
9. Attach the lower FRONT PANEL to the upper part. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES downwards and serge.
10. Stitch the side SEAM ALLOWANCES, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and serge. Stitch the side SEAM ALLOWANCES of the FACINGS, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Fold the FACING with the garment right sides together and stitch the lower edge of the lower BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL, clip SEAM ALLOWANCES, turn the FACING to the wrong side.
11. Stitch the skirt GORES together. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open and serge.
12. Fold the skirt with the FACING right sides together and stitch along the upper edge, serge SEAM ALLOWANCES. Topstitch the lower BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL to the FACING and skirt, securing them together.
13. Create and secure pleats on the SLEEVE pieces. Stitch the SLEEVE seam, press and serge. Stitch the CUFF into a ring, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open, serge the upper edge. Attach the CUFF to the lower edge of the SLEEVE, turn the CUFF to the wrong side, topstitch the SLEEVE to the CUFF along the upper pleat. Topstitch pleats with elastic thread along the SLEEVE seam and along the center of the SLEEVE.
14. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes, press SEAM ALLOWANCES and serge.
15. Fold the belt pieces lengthwise in half right sides together and stitch the long and slanted sides. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, turn the belt right side out, press, serge the raw edge.
16. Turn under the serged belt SEAM ALLOWANCE, place it on the BACK PANEL and topstitch along the ZIPPER, positioning the seam joining the upper and lower BACK PANEL in the middle of the belt.
17. Serge the lower edge SEAM ALLOWANCE of the skirt, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.