Quilted Belted Jacket with Welt Pockets
A women's padded jacket below the hip with a centre-front zip, a padded stand collar, single-welt pockets and a separate tie belt. The body and sleeves are lined with polyester wadding and quilted with elastic thread in horizontal rows, which gathers the fabric into puffed bands.
When To Wear
- In cool autumn and spring weather, over jumpers, shirts and dresses.
- Day to day with jeans or trousers, belted at the waist or worn open.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Gathered into horizontal puffed bands, drawn in at the waist by the belt, flaring below it.
Length: Below the hip.
Collar: Stand collar, padded with wadding, cut as upper and under collar.
Closure: Zip at the centre front; zip length is marked on the front pattern piece.
Pockets: Single-welt pockets on the fronts, with a facing on the large pocket bag and lining pocket bags.
Sleeves: Set-in, quilted with elastic thread like the body; a 2 cm elastic ring between the sleeve and its lining gathers the wrist.
Back: One piece, quilted in the same rows as the front.
Waist: Separate belt, sewn and turned, tied at the front.
Lining: Full lining with front facings and a back neck facing; jacket turned through an opening in the left side seam of the lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Quilting through wadding with elastic thread, welt pockets, a zip and a fully bagged lining with elastic at the wrists.
Fabric Recommendations
Raincoat fabric.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Polyester wadding (back, fronts, sleeves, collar)
- Fusible interfacing (welts and pocket area)
- Zip (length marked on the front pattern piece)
- Elastic thread
- Elastic, 2 cm wide
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Waistband (belt) – 1 piece
- Underlay Piece – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Front Lining – 2 pieces
- Back Lining – 1 piece
- Sleeve Lining – 2 pieces
- Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Bigger Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- From polyester wadding:
- Back Padding Polyester – 1 piece
- Front Padding Polyester – 2 pieces
- Sleeve Padding Polyester – 2 pieces
- Collar Padding Polyester – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the off-set welts and to the welt positions on the fronts.
- Place the back, fronts and sleeves on the matching padding pieces (back, front and sleeve padding polyester) and stitch around 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Fold the off-set welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Stitch the underlay piece onto the bigger pocket bag, turning under its seam allowance. Stitch the smaller pocket bag to the welt. Place the bigger pocket bag on one marked line, and the smaller pocket bag with the welt attached, right side down, on the other line. Stitch along the marks. Cut the pocket opening down the middle between the stitching lines, clipping diagonally into the corners at the ends. Turn the welt and pocket bags to the inside and straighten them. Secure the corner triangles with stitching on the wrong side. Stitch the pocket bags together along the curved edges.
- Quilt the back, fronts and sleeves with elastic thread along the marks.
- Stitch the shoulder seams and press the seam allowances open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches.
- Stitch the side seams and sleeve seams and press the seam allowances open.
- Insert the zip.
- Place the collar padding polyester pieces on one collar piece and stitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Place the upper and under collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim the seam allowances, turn the collar right side out, straighten the seams and press. Stitch the collar to the jacket neckline.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and center front facings and press the seam allowances open. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back lining and front linings and press the seam allowances open. Set the sleeve linings into the armholes. Stitch the side seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam, and the sleeve seams. Stitch the center front facings and back neckline facing to the lining.
- Place the outer jacket and the lining right sides together and stitch along the lower edge and the sleeve hems. Stitch along the front edges, forming a corner at the bottom. Stitch the elastic into a ring. Place it between the sleeve and the sleeve lining and stitch through all layers along the dotted lines. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Stitch the opening closed.
- Fold the waistband (belt) in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along three sides, leaving an opening. Clip the corners and turn the belt right side out. Stitch the opening closed.
