CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Center BACK PANEL - QTY 2
- Side BACK PANEL - QTY 2
- Side FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
- Center upper FRONT PANEL – QTY 1
- Center lower FRONT PANEL – QTY 1
- FLOUNCE – QTY 1
- Shoulder tab – QTY 4
- From contrast fabric:
- Armhole TRIM STRIP - QTY 2
- FLOUNCE - QTY 1
- From LINING fabric:
- Center BACK PANEL - QTY 2
- Side BACK PANEL - QTY 2
- Side FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
- Center FRONT PANEL – QTY 1
LINING pieces are cut according to the main garment patterns. To do this, join the center upper and lower FRONT PANELs along the seam line. The LINING is 25 cm shorter than the main garment.
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch shoulder darts on the BACK PANEL. Press darts towards the center seam. Overlock the center back edge. Insert the ZIPPER from the top edge to the NOTCH. Fold back the bottom part of the ZIPPER and stitch the center back edge from the NOTCH downwards. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
- Place FLOUNCE pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour of the section between the “arrows”, then skip a section, then stitch the section from the mark to the side seam. At the beginning and end of the stitching, NOTCH the SEAM ALLOWANCES, turn the pieces right side out, press, and straighten the seams. NOTCH the edge section marked with a wavy line, turn under 1 cm, and topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE to the FRONT PANEL according to the markings. Fold the FLOUNCE to the right side and topstitch to the FRONT PANEL along three lines, aligning the markings on the FLOUNCE and the FRONT PANEL. Secure the FLOUNCE to the FRONT PANEL along the upper edge. Create pleats on the FLOUNCE according to the technical drawing and secure them to the shaped edge.
- Stitch darts on the center upper FRONT PANEL. Press darts upwards. Stitch the upper and center FRONT PANELs. Overlock the seam and press towards the upper part.
- On the center FRONT PANEL, clip the SEAM ALLOWANCE near the lower mark along the right shaped edge. Overlock the section from the mark to the bottom, turn under 1 cm, and topstitch. Attach the right SIDE PANEL of the FRONT PANEL to the center part, stitching only the FLOUNCE and SIDE PANEL from the bottom to the first mark, and the FLOUNCE, SIDE PANEL, and center parts from the mark to the armhole. Press the seam towards the SIDE PANEL and overlock. Attach the left SIDE PANEL to the center FRONT PANEL. Press the seam towards the SIDE PANEL and overlock.
- Stitch the shaped edges of the BACK PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center and overlock. Stitch the shoulder edges, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
- Fold shoulder tabs in pairs right sides together and stitch the long sides and the corner. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES, turn pieces right side out, baste, and press.
- Armhole TRIM STRIPS: press short sides 2 cm inwards. Fold in half lengthwise and press. Insert TRIM STRIPS into armholes. Attach the shoulder tab to the armhole SEAM ALLOWANCE over the TRIM STRIP. NOTCH the armhole SEAM ALLOWANCE, fold back the TRIM STRIPS with the shoulder tab, press the seam towards the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL.
- Stitch side edges, press seams towards the BACK PANEL and overlock.
- Stitch LINING pieces. Place LINING and main garment right sides together and stitch armhole edges, folding the TRIM STRIPS inwards. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES, clip at curves. Turn the garment right side out, baste, and press. Turn under the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the center back edge of the LINING fabric and secure to the ZIPPER tape. Secure the LINING to the main garment along the neckline edge. Turn under the bottom edge of the LINING twice to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Cut BIAS BINDING from contrast fabric 4.5 cm wide and a length equal to the neckline length + 4 cm. Finish the neckline edge with BIAS BINDING, folding the ends inwards.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side to the hem width, and hem with a blind stitch.
- Sew buttons onto the shoulder tabs.
