CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Center BACK PANEL - QTY 2
- Side BACK PANEL - QTY 2
- BACK FACING - QTY 2
- Side upper FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
- Center upper FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- Lower FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
- Right strap – QTY 1
- Left strap – QTY 1
- Right belt part – QTY 1
- Left belt part – QTY 1
- From LINING fabric:
- LINING of center upper BACK PANEL - QTY 2
- LINING of side upper BACK PANEL - QTY 2
- Side upper FRONT PANEL - QTY 2 (cut according to main fabric pieces)
- Center upper FRONT PANEL – QTY 2 (cut according to main fabric pieces)
- LINING of lower FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
- BACK FACING - QTY 1
- Center upper FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- Right belt part – QTY 1
- Left belt part – QTY 1
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the corresponding pieces with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
- Fold the strap pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along one long and one short side. Turn right side out and press.
- Stitch the center back seam together with the vent down to the bottom. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES and vent to the left side and serge. Topstitch the vent SEAM ALLOWANCES along the upper edge with a machine stitch. Stitch the princess seams of the BACK PANEL, inserting the straps. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center and serge.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper FRONT PANEL, pressing the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center. Stitch the princess seams of the LINING of the upper FRONT PANEL, pressing the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center. Place the LINING with the main fabric, right sides together, and stitch around the perimeter, leaving the shoulder and side seams open. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES at curves, trim at corners, turn the vest right side out, and press.
- Stitch the darts on the lower FRONT PANEL, pressing the dart depths towards the center. Stitch the darts on the LINING of the lower FRONT PANEL, pressing the dart depths towards the center. Serge the lower edge of the LINING. Place the LINING piece onto the main fabric piece, wrong sides together, secure along the edges, and treat as one piece thereafter.
- Trim the integrated placket allowance on the left lower FRONT PANEL, leaving 2 cm. Serge the center edges. Stitch the center seam from the fly down to the slit mark. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open, pressing the slit. Topstitch 0.1 cm from the edge of the slit.
- Press the integrated placket allowance on the right FRONT SKIRT HALF to the wrong side along the center front line. On the left FRONT SKIRT HALF, press 1 cm from the edge. Attach the ZIPPER under the edge of the left allowance, positioning the teeth close to the fold. Pin the skirt halves together, aligning the center lines. Attach the free ZIPPER tape to the allowance of the right side of the closure, without catching the fabric of the front skirt half. Topstitch along the right FRONT SKIRT HALF.
- Press the belt pieces in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and serge the lower inner edges. Attach the belt to the upper edge of the skirt. Stitch the ends of the belt, trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES at the corners, and turn. Topstitch the lower serged edge of the belt into the attaching seam.
- Place the vest onto the skirt and secure along the side seam.
- Stitch the LINING pieces of the BACK PANEL similarly to the main fabric pieces. Place the LINING with the main fabric and stitch the armhole edges, ending the stitch exactly at the marked side seam line. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES at curves.
- Insert the front between the LINING and main fabric of the BACK PANEL and stitch the side seams. Serge the SEAM ALLOWANCES, press towards the BACK PANEL, and turn the garment right side out.
- Attach the BACK FACING to the upper edge of the BACK PANEL, pressing the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the FACING. Stitch the shoulder seams (the neck SEAM ALLOWANCES of the BACK PANEL and the lower edge on the FACING extend by 1 cm). Place the FACING pieces right sides together and stitch the neckline. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES, turn the FACING to the wrong side, fold the free shoulder edge of the lower FACING inwards and secure. Press the lower edge of the inner FACING inwards and topstitch into the attaching seam of the outer FACING, stitching the FACINGS together in the free areas.
- Serge the lower edge of the garment, press to the wrong side, and hem with blind stitches.
- On the right vest FRONT PANEL and right belt, make buttonholes. Sew buttons on the left side.
