Fabric & Materials
From dress fabric
From suit fabric
From FUSIBLE INTERFACING
CUTTER'S MUST
- BACK PANEL upper part – 1 QTY
- FRONT PANEL upper part - 2 QTY
- SLEEVE - 2 QTY
- CUFF – 2 QTY
- COLLAR stand – 2 QTY
- FLOUNCE – 2 QTY
- FACING – 2 QTY
- BACK PANEL lower part – 2 QTY
- FRONT PANEL lower part - 1 QTY
- COLLAR stand, FACING.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the COLLAR stand and FACING pieces.
- Stitch darts on the lower BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL pieces, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center of the respective pieces.
- On the left lower BACK PANEL, along the vertical slit edge, cut off 5 cm. On both lower BACK PANEL pieces, fuse the slit from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (slit fold line). Press the left part along the slit fold line; on the right part, press only the right slit SEAM ALLOWANCE (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper slit edge. Overlock the center BACK PANEL edge separately on each piece, simultaneously overlocking the slit. Stitch the center BACK PANEL edge from the upper edge to the slit end. Clip the corner of the slit SEAM ALLOWANCE on the right part. Press the center seam SEAM ALLOWANCES open, press the slit SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure them with machine stitching.
- Along the lower edge of the upper BACK PANEL, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches. Gather the edge to the length of the upper edge of the lower BACK PANEL. Attach the upper BACK PANEL to the lower BACK PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES downwards, overlock.
- Cut the FLOUNCE in a spiral. Finish the outer edge of the FLOUNCE with a narrow rolled hem. Measure the required length of the FLOUNCE along the open edge. This length is measured on the upper FRONT PANEL from the neckline edge to the mark on the center edge.
- Cut a BIAS BINDING strip 2.5 cm wide and 20 cm long. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and straighten the loop. Cut loops. The length of one loop is 4 cm.
- Place the FLOUNCE wrong side up on the right side of the upper FRONT PANEL and stitch. Overlock the center FRONT PANEL SEAM ALLOWANCES together with the FLOUNCE. Place the FACING and the upper FRONT PANEL right sides together and stitch the neckline edge to the mark, simultaneously inserting the loop ties on the right FRONT PANEL. Stitch the center edge of the upper FRONT PANEL with one seam to the center edge of the FACING. Overlock the outer edge of the FACING. Turn the FACING to the wrong side and topstitch onto the FRONT PANEL along the neckline, folding back the FLOUNCE. Secure the FACING to the FRONT PANEL at the neckline edge and shoulder edge.
- Along the lower edge of the upper FRONT PANEL, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches. Gather the edge to the length of the upper edge of the lower FRONT PANEL. Attach the upper FRONT PANEL to the lower FRONT PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES downwards, overlock.
- Stitch shoulder edges, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and overlock.
- Fold COLLAR stand pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge, starting and ending the stitching strictly at the COLLAR stand attachment line. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES, turn the COLLAR stand right side out, press.
- Attach the outer COLLAR stand to the neckline, fold the unfinished longitudinal edge of the inner COLLAR stand and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Stitch side edges, leaving an opening for the ZIPPER in the left side seam. Press the left seam SEAM ALLOWANCES open, press the right seam SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and overlock. Insert the ZIPPER into the left side seam.
- Stitch, press, and overlock SLEEVE edges. Stitch the CUFF into a ring, press in half lengthwise, right side out. Unfold the CUFF and attach the outer side to the bottom of the SLEEVE. Fold the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the inner CUFF and topstitch into the attachment seam. Stitch along the SLEEVE cap with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes, forming gathers around the shoulder seam. Overlock the seam SEAM ALLOWANCES.
- Press the hem SEAM ALLOWANCE of the dress to the wrong side by 1 cm, fold inwards another 2 cm and topstitch.
- Sew decorative buttons onto the left FRONT PANEL.
