CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- BACK PANEL - 1 QTY
- Back Yoke – 1 QTY
- Front Yoke - 2 QTY
- Front Center Panel - 2 QTY
- Front Side Panel - 2 QTY
- SLEEVE – 2 QTY
- COLLAR – 2 QTY
- CUFF – 2 QTY
- Welt Pocket – 2 QTY
- Pocket LINING – 4 QTY
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
- COLLAR – 1 QTY
- CUFF – 2 QTY
- Welt Pocket – 2 QTY
- One-piece placket for front yoke and front center panel.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the one-piece plackets of the front yoke and front center panel, COLLAR, welt pockets, and CUFFs with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
- Place the upper COLLAR on the lower COLLAR, right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the COLLAR, starting and ending the seam strictly at the marked COLLAR attachment line. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES, turn out, straighten, and press the COLLAR.
- Fold the welt pocket piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the short sides. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES at the corners, turn the welt pocket to the right side, and press. Topstitch along the short sides and one long side. Attach one of the pocket LININGs to the welt pocket.
- Place the pocket LINING on the right side of the front side panel, and the pocket LINING with the attached welt pocket on the front center panel, right side down, aligning with the NOTCHES. Stitch the pocket LINING to the pocket opening SEAM ALLOWANCE. Overcast the shaped edges of the FRONT PANEL together with the vent SEAM ALLOWANCES.
- Stitch the FRONT PANEL shaping seams simultaneously with the pocket LINING up to the vent. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center. Stitch the pocket LININGs together and overcast. Topstitch 0.2 cm from the edge along the shaping seam on the right side. Stitch the short sides of the welt pocket to the front side panel.
- Press the vent SEAM ALLOWANCE of the front side panel in half. Fold the vents so that the center panel vent is on top, and stitch a securing seam at the base of the vent.
- Create a box pleat on the BACK PANEL. Attach the back yoke to the BACK PANEL, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the yoke, and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam. Attach the front yoke to the FRONT PANEL, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the yoke, and topstitch 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Overcast the edge of the one-piece placket, fold it to the right side of the FRONT PANEL, and stitch the upper corner from the fold to the center line, and the lower corner strictly along the marked bottom line. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES at the corners. Turn out the placket, press, and topstitch it to the FRONT PANEL, catching the inner edge of the pocket LINING.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open, and overcast.
- Attach the lower COLLAR to the jacket neckline. Fold the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the upper COLLAR inwards and topstitch into the lower COLLAR attachment seam.
- Fold the CUFFs right sides together and stitch the short edges and the transition end.
- Overcast the SLEEVE edges, stitch up to the slit mark, press open, pressing the slit. Topstitch along the edge of the slit. Attach the upper CUFF to the lower edge of the SLEEVE. Fold the upper edge of the lower CUFF by 1 cm and topstitch into the upper CUFF attachment seam. Topstitch along the contour of the CUFF.
- Attach the SLEEVES to the armholes, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment. Stitch the lower corners of the vents, the seam runs exactly along the marked bottom line. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE to the jacket along the overcast line.
- Topstitch 0.2 cm from the edge along the front opening and COLLAR.
- On the right FRONT PANEL, overcast the buttonholes; on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on the buttons. Overcast the buttonholes and sew on the buttons on the CUFFs.
